Bicycles
Bicycles ( velos ) have high status in France. All the car ferries carry them for nothing; the SNCF makes minimal charges; and the French (Parisians excepted) respect cyclists - both as traffic and, when you stop off at a restaurant or hotel, as customers. In addition many municipalities and departements are actively promoting cycling, not only with city paths, but comprehensive networks linking rural areas (frequently utilizing disused roadways and rail right-of-ways). These days more and more cyclists are using mountain bikes , which the French call VTTs ( velos tout terrain ), even for touring holidays, although it's much less effort, and much quicker, to cycle long distances and carry luggage on a traditionally styled touring or racing bike. Restaurants and hotels along the way are nearly always obliging about looking after your bike, even to the point of allowing it into your room. Most large towns have well-stocked retail and repair shops , where parts are normally cheaper than in Britain or the US. However, if you're using a foreign-made bike with non-standard metric wheels, it's a good idea to carry spare tyres. Inner tubes are not a problem, as they adapt to either size, though make sure you get the right valves. The train network runs various schemes for cyclists, all of them covered by the free leaflet Guide du Train et du Velo , available from most stations. Trains marked with a bicycle in the timetable allow you to take a bike as free accompanied luggage. Otherwise, you have to send your bike parcelled up as registered luggage for a fee of 150F/?22.88. Although it may well arrive in less time, the SNCF won't guarantee delivery in under five days; and you do hear stories of bicycles disappearing altogether. You can normally load your bike straight onto the train at the ferry port - as on the boat train at Dieppe - but remember that you must first go to the ticket office of the station to register it. Don't just try to climb on the train with it, as both you and your bike will end up left behind. Ferries either take bikes free or charge a maximum of GBP5 one way. British Airways and Air France both take bikes free - you may have to box them though, and you should contact the airlines first. Eurostar allow you to take your bicycle as part of your baggage allowance provided it is dismantled and stored in a special bike bag, and the dimensions don't exceed 120cm by 90cm. Otherwise it needs to be sent on unaccompanied, with a guaranteed arrival of 24 hours (you can register it up to ten days in advance; book through Esprit Europe tel 0800/186186); the fee is GBP20 one way. Bikes - usually mountain bikes - are often available to rent from campsites, hostels and gites d'etapes , as well as from specialist cycle shops and some tourist offices for around 80F/?12.20 per day; these machines are likely to be more reliable, though more expensive, than those of the SNCF. The bikes are often not insured, however, and you will be presented with the bill for its replacement if it's stolen or damaged. Check whether your travel insurance policy covers you for this if you intend to rent a bike. As for maps , a minimum requirement is the IGN 1:100,000 series - the smallest scale that carries contours. In the UK, the Cyclists' Touring Club, Cotterell House, 68 Meadrow, Godalming, Surrey GU7 3HS (tel 01483/417 217, fax 01483/426 994, cycling@ctc.org.uk ), will suggest routes and supply advice for members (GBP25 p.a. or GBP12.50 for unemployed). They run a particularly good insurance scheme.
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