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Twenty kilometres downstream of St-Antonin you come to the beautiful ridge-top village of PENNE , once a Cathar stronghold, with its ruined castle impossibly perched on an airy crag. Everything is old and leaning and bulging, but holding together nonetheless, with a harmony that would be impossible to create purposely. Another hilltop castle commands its village at BRUNIQUEL (April, June & Sept Mon-Sat 2-6pm, Sun 10am-12.30pm & 2-6pm; May & Oct Sun only same hours; July & Aug daily 10am-12.30pm & 2-7pm; 15F/?2.29, or 20F/?3.05 including guided visit), a few kilometres further on. You can also visit a handsome house in the village, the aristocratic Maison des Comtes de Payrol (April-Sept daily 10am-6pm; rest of year Sat & Sun 10am-6pm; 15F/?2.29). If you want to stay , there's a chambres d'hote (tel 05.63.67.26.16; 220-300F/?34-46; closed Dec & Jan; meals from 95F/?14.48), whose proprietor is a mountain-biker and will take you out on trips, and Le Payssel campsite (tel 05.63.67.25.95; closed Oct-April), about 700m south on the D964 to Albi.
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