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A half-hour train ride north of Brive along the course of the bubbling River Vezere, the town of UZERCHE is impressively located above a loop in the river's course. It's worth a passing visit as the town has several fine old buildings. From the gare SNCF , the old town is a five-minute walk south along the main road. The tourist office (mid-June to Sept daily 10am-12.30pm & 1.30-6.30pm; rest of year Mon-Fri 10am-noon & 2-5pm; tel 05.55.73.15.71, fax 05.55.73.88.36, ot.uzerche@wanadoo.fr ), behind the main church, provides a suggested walking route, but the place is so small you can easily find your own way around. If you need a place to stay , Hotel Teyssier , by the river (tel 05.55.73.10.05, fax 05.55.98.43.31; 220-300F/?34-46; closed Wed; restaurant from 95F/?14.48), is a good option, as is the slightly cheaper Hotel Ambroise round the corner (tel 05.55.73.28.60, fax 05.55.98.45.73; under 160F/?24-220F/?34; restaurant from 80F/?12.20). Roughly 20km west of Uzerche (40min by train, on a different line, from Brive), is ARNAC-POMPADOUR , a town dominated by its grey, turreted chateau , presented in 1745 by Louis XV to his mistress, Madame de Pompadour, though she never actually visited it. Set in the green countryside of southern Limousin - reminiscent of parts of Ireland - the chateau is home to one of France's best-known stud farms ( haras ), first created by Louis XV in 1761, where Anglo-Arabs were first bred. Only the chateau terraces are open to the public (daily: April-Sept 10-11.30am & 2-5.30pm; rest of year 2-4.30/5.30pm; 10F/?1.52), but it's more interesting to visit the depot des etalons where the stallions are kept (daily: July-Sept 10-11am & 2-5.30pm; rest of year 2.30-4.30pm; 25F/?3.81), across the square from the chateau. The mares live in the Jumenterie de la Riviere (mid-Feb to June 2-4.15/5pm; July-Sept 3-5pm; 20F/?3.05), 4km away near the village of Beyssac; in spring the fields around are full of mares and foals, the best being kept for breeding, the rest sold worldwide as two-year-olds. From May to October there are frequent race meetings on the magnificent track in front of the chateau, events and open days. The gare SNCF is 500m southeast of the town, on the D7 Vigeois road. There's a reasonable place to stay and eat , the Hotel du Parc (tel 05.55.73.30.54, fax 05.55.73.39.79; 220-300F/?34-46; closed Christmas & New Year; restaurant from 85F/?12.96), behind the chateau.
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