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Seen from the distance, TULLE , 29km east of Brive, is a strange, unattractive-looking place. Strung out along the bottom of the narrow and deep valley of the Correze, it looks grey, run-down and industrial. But once you get down to the riverside and the area around the cathedral, it reveals itself to be full of fascinating winding lanes and stairways bordered by very handsome houses - many as old as the fourteenth century - with an imposing Hotel de Ville at the end of rue du Trech, the main commercial street. If not worth a prolonged stay, Tulle certainly makes an interesting stopover. The Cathedrale Notre-Dame , whose construction was drawn out from Romanesque to Gothic periods, stands on the riverside quays in place Emile-Zola. The cloister beside it has a small museum (Mon-Tues, Thurs-Fri & Sun 9am-noon & 2-5/6pm, Wed & Sat 2-5/6pm; 15F/?2.29), containing a mishmash of exhibits ranging from archeology to accordions, along with a large contingent of firearms, which once formed one of the town's major industries, along with lace. Around the block, at 2 quai Edmond-Perrier, is a collection of documents to do with the Resistance at the Musee Departemental de la Resistance et de la Deportation (Mon-Fri 9am-noon & 2-6pm; free), particularly the terrible reprisals wreaked by the Germans when they recaptured the town from the Resistance on June 8, 1944, and hanged 99 people. The tourist office is opposite the cathedral at 2 place Emile-Zola (July & Aug Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm, Sun 10am-noon; rest of year Mon 2-6pm, Tues-Sat 9.30am-noon & 2-6pm; tel 05.55.26.59.61, fax 05.55.20.72.93), and you'll find the bus and train stations side by side on the southwest edge of the town on avenue Winston-Churchill. The market takes place every Wednesday and Saturday by the cathedral. By far the most attractive place to stay is also the simplest: the Hotel au Bon Accueil , 10 rue du Canton (tel 05.55.26.70.57; 160-220F/?24-34; closed one week at Christmas; restaurant from 78F/?11.89), in an old beamed house with stone mullion windows, across the river from the cathedral. Other places to stay include Hotel de la Gare (tel 05.55.20.04.04, fax 05.55.20.15.87; 220-300F/?34-46; closed one week in Feb & two weeks in Sept; restaurant from 97F/?14.79), by the train station, and the Toque Blanche at 29 rue Jean-Jaures (tel 05.55.26.75.41, fax 05.55.20.93.95; 220-300F/?34-46; closed second half Jan & early July), overlooking the car park by the very unattractive municipal offices, but only five minutes from the cathedral. The rooms at the Toque Blanche are acceptable but nothing special, whereas the restaurant is renowned, with an affordable menu at 135F/?20.58 (closed Sun evening & Mon) - or you can try their brasserie, L'Amadeus (closed Sun, and Mon & Tues evenings; menus from 68F/?10.37), next door. There is a municipal campsite by the river on the Ussel side of town (tel 05.55.26.75.97; closed Oct-April).
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