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If you're travelling by car, you might consider staying in one of the villages in the hilly wooded country northeast of Tulle. GIMEL-LES-CASCADES , in particular, is very beautiful and, out of season at least, very quiet. It is a minute hamlet, about 10km away and clinging to the edge of a steep valley beside a spectacular waterfall, the Montane , which has sadly been turned into a paying "sight" (March-Oct daily 10am-6pm, Wed from 11am; 20F/?3.05). There is also a superb twelfth-century reliquary, known as the Chasse de St-Etienne , in the treasury of the local church . The attractive Hostellerie de la Vallee (tel 05.55.21.40.60, fax 05.55.21.38.74; 220-300F/?34-46; closed Oct-March) in the village has a few simple rooms and a good restaurant from 85F/?12.96. A further possibility for accommodation is the friendly and unpretentious Hotel Maurianges , near the defunct Monteil train station, one kilometre up the road from Gimel, serving copious home-cooked meals for 70F/?10.67 (tel 05.55.21.28.88; 160-220F/?24-34; restaurant closed Sat & evenings out of season). There is also a campsite (tel 05.55.26.42.12; July & Aug) by a beautiful lakelet, the Etang de Ruffaud, near Gimel, where you can swim and get a reasonable meal in the lakeside bar.
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