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Perigord Noir encompasses the central part of the valley of the Dordogne, and the valley of the Vezere. This is the distinctive Dordogne country: deep-cut valleys enclosed within the water-smooth cliffs their rivers have eroded, with fields of maize in the alluvial bottoms and dense oak woods on the heights, interspersed with patches of not very fertile farmland. Plantations of walnut trees (cultivated for their oil), flocks of low-slung grey geese (their livers enlarged for foie gras) and prehistoric-looking stone huts called bories are other hallmarks of Perigord Noir, and beyond the region, along the upper Dordogne valley towards Argentat in the east. In the valley of the Vezere the slightly overhanging cliffs have been worn away by frost action over the millennia and they are riddled with caves that have been used as dwellings and sanctuaries for thousands of years. It was here in the Vezere valley that the first skeletons of Cro-Magnon people - the first Homo sapiens , tall and muscular with a large skull - were unearthed in 1868 by labourers digging out the Perigueux-Agen train line, and here, too, that an incredible wealth of archeological and artistic evidence of the life of late Stone Age people has since been found. The prehistoric cave paintings are the absolute highlight of Perigord Noir: they are remarkable not only for their great age, but also for their exquisite colouring and the skill with which they are drawn. However, the international renown of the caves and their paintings, combined with the well-preserved medieval architecture of Sarlat , has made this one of the most heavily touristed inland areas of France, with all the concomitant problems of crowds, high prices and tack. It is really worth coming out of season, but if you can't, seek accommodation away from the main centres, and always drive along the back roads - the smaller the better - even when there is a more direct route available.
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