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Picturesque PIANA occupies a prime location overlooking the Calanche, but for some reason does not suffer the deluge of tourists that Porto endures. Retaining a sleepy feel, the village comprises a cluster of pink houses ranged around an eighteenth-century church and square, from the edge of which the panoramic views over the Golfe de Porto are sublime. If you want to stay , head straight for the Hotel les Roches Rouges , at the entrance to the village on the Porto side (tel 04.95.27.81.81, fax 04.95.27.81.76; 300-400F/?46-61; closed Nov-March). Built in the 1930s, this wonderfully dated place lay empty for nearly twenty years, but was recently reopened with most of its original fittings and furniture. The tariffs are exceptionally low, too, considering the hotel's situation and character. Even if your budget won't stretch to a room, drop in for coffee and a game of chess on the magnificent terrace. A cheaper alternative is the Continental , an old house with high wooden ceilings and a leafy garden, on the right as you leave Piana for Porto (tel 04.95.27.89.00; 220-300F/?34-46). There's also an excellent gite d'etape (tel 04.95.27.82.05), where double rooms cost a mere 130F/?19.76 per night, and the friendly patronne offers good-value half-board for 175F/?26.60.
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