Practicalities
There's a tourist office on rue Dr-Dragacci (daily: June-Sept 9am-noon & 4-7pm; Oct-May 2-5pm; tel 04.95.26.41.31), which can help find accommodation and sells tickets for summer boat trips to the Calanche , costing about 170F/?25.84. Buses for Ajaccio and Porto stop outside the post office , set back from the road in the main square. All the best hotels are located within minutes of the centre, with the budget places at the top end of the village. The least expensive is the Continental , on the left as you descend into the main square from Porto (tel 04.95.26.42.24; 220-300F/?34-46), which is a bit dingy but clean and comfortable enough. If you can afford to splash out a little more, head for the Bel'Mare , 400m out of the village towards Ajaccio (tel 04.95.26.40.13; 300-400F/?46-61); all the rooms have superb sea views from balconies, and it offers good low-season discounts. An equally comfortable option is Thalassa on plage de Pero (tel 04.95.26.40.08; 300-400F/?46-61 including meal; closed winter), an intimate little place with friendly owners. The nearest campsite , Camping Torraccia (tel 04.95.26.42.39), is 4km north of Cargese on the main road. A fair number of restaurants are scattered about the village, as well as the standard crop of basic pizzerias. A Volta , behind the Catholic church on place Mattei, offers a good-value 100F/?15.20 menu, featuring seafood, game and pasta served on a spectacular terrace that juts out over the sea. Cargese's most reputed, and expensive, restaurant is located down in the marina. Don't be fooled by Chez Antoine 's rustic fishing shack appearance; their bouillabaisse is legendary, and draws yachties from the nearby moorings, and well-heeled Ajacciens in equal number. For a drink , go no further than the main square, where you can watch all the action from Bar Chantilly , whose breakfast customers munch takeaway croissants and pains au chocolat from the bakery opposite. Another equally atmospheric spot is the rear terrace of the Bar au Bon Accueil , on the main street, which affords optimum views over the old quarter and gulf.
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