Eating, Drinking and Nightlife
Eating possibilities in Bonifacio might seem unlimited, but it's best to avoid the chintzy restaurants in the marina, few of which merit their exorbitant prices - the places in the ville haute are less pretentious. For a snack, try the Boulangerie-Patisserie Faby, 4 rue St-Jean-Baptiste in the haute ville , a tiny local bakery serving Bonifacien treats such as pain des morts (sweet buns with walnuts and raisins), fugazzi ( galettes flavoured with eau de vie, orange, lemon and aniseed) and migliacis , buns made with fresh ewe's cheese, in addition to the usual range of spinach and brocciu bastelles , baked here in the traditional way - on stone. The bars and cafes on quai Comparetti are the social focus for much of the day and in the evening. Nightlife is extremely sedate. What little there is revolves around the terraces of the quai Comparetti. Bonifacio's only nightclub was blown up by nationalist bombers a couple of years back, so for a real nuit blanche you'll have to head for Porto Vecchio. Restaurants Archivolto , rue Archivolto (tel 04.95.73.17.58). Easily the most appealing place in the haute ville , with its candle-lit, antique and bric-a-brac-filled interior. Prices are fair and the menu varied (plenty of choice for vegetarians), but the quality of the cuisine is patchy. Advance reservation recommended. Closed Nov-Easter. La Main a la Pates , 1 place Bonaparte (tel 04.95.73.04.50). Fresh home-made pasta with imaginative sauces - mint, cocoa, seaweed and around thirty more to choose from. Quite pricey (most main dishes 75-100F/?12.20-15.20), but worth it. de la Poste , 6 rue Fred-Scamaroni (tel 04.95.73.13.31). Among the best-value places in the citadel, serving standard Corsican dishes like spaghetti au brocciu , fish, seafood and plenty of inexpensive pizzas. Closed Sun during the winter. Le Rustic , 7 rue Fred-Scamaroni. Basic and inexpensive Corsican dishes, including delicious merrizzane (stuffed aubergine) - the local speciality. Set menu at 120F/?18.24. Wood fires in winter. U Castille , rue Simon-Varsi (tel 04.95.73.04.99). Upscale stone-walled pizzeria in the haute ville specializing in Italian-style dishes based mainly on lamb, veal and fresh seafood - try their wonderful terrine de sanglier , fresh pasta a la carbonara , or tomato and mozzarella salads steeped in fresh basil. Highly commendable seafood menu at 120F/?18.24, plus wine. Closed Sun & Mon in winter.
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