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There are impressive views of the citadel from the cliffs at the head of the montee Rastello (reached via the pathway running left from the top of the steps), but they're not a patch on the spectacular panorama to be had from the sea. Throughout the day, a flotilla of excursion boats ferries visitors out to the best vantage points, taking in a string of caves and other landmarks only accessible by water en route, including the Iles Lavezzi , the scattering of small islets where the troop ship Semillante was shipwrecked in 1855, now designated as a nature reserve. The whole experience of bobbing around to an amplified running commentary is about as touristy as Bonifacio gets, but it's well worth enduring just to round the mouth of the harbour and see the vieille ville perched atop the famous chalk cliffs. The boats leave from the east side of the marina; tickets cost 75F/?11.40 for short trips to the sea caves, and around 100F/?15.20 for the longer excursion to the islands. The beaches along this part of the coast are generally smaller and less appealing than most in southern Corsica, although those fringing the Golfe de Santa Manza , to the north, are set amid some fine scenery. On the southernmost tip of the island, reached via a narrow but easily motorable road, a trio of small coves are the most popular beaches within easy reach of town. The first, plage de Pianterella , 7km east of Bonifacio, is also the dullest, backed by an unsavoury swamp. Walk south around the headland for fifteen minutes and you'll reach the more pleasant plage de Sperone , a pearl-white cove with calm, shallow water that's ideal for kids. However, this beach gets jam-packed in the summer and you may want to venture further along the coast to Calalonga , where you stand a better chance of escaping the crowds. To get there, head east of town on the D58, and take the first turning right, after around 3km. By far the most photogenic beach in this area is Rondinara , a perfect shell-shaped cove of turquoise water enclosed by dunes and a pair of twin headlands. Thankfully, it is well off the beaten track, although the recent appearance of a surfaced road all the way to the beach could well change that. To see it at its most empty, get here early the morning. The turning for Rondinara is signposted 10km north along N198.
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