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The south side of place Foch, standing on the former dividing line between the poor district around the port and the bourgeoisie's territory, gives access to rue Bonaparte , the main route through the latter quarter. Built on the promontory rising to the citadel, the secluded streets in this part of town - with their dusty buildings and hole-in-the-wall restaurants lit by flashes of sea or sky at the end of the alleys - retain more of a sense of the old Ajaccio than anywhere else. Napoleon was born in what's now the colossal Maison Bonaparte , on place Letizia (May-Sept Mon 2-6pm, Tues-Fri 9am-noon & 2-6pm, Sat 9-11.45am & 2-6pm, Sun 9am-noon; Oct-April Mon 2-6pm, Tues-Sat 10am-noon & 2-5pm, Sun 10am-noon; 22F/?3.34), off the west side of rue Napoleon. The house passed to Napoleon's father in the 1760s and here he lived, with his wife and family, until his death. But in May 1793, the Bonapartes were driven from the house by Paoli's partisans, who stripped the place down to the floorboards. Requisitioned by the English in 1794, Maison Bonaparte became an arsenal and a lodging house for English officers until Napoleon's mother Letizia herself funded its restoration. Owned by the state since 1923, the house now bears few traces of the Bonaparte family's existence. One of the few original pieces of furniture left in the house is the wooden sedan chair in the hallway - the pregnant Letizia was carried back from church in it when her contractions started. Upstairs, there's an endless display of portraits, miniatures, weapons, letters and documents. Amongst the highlights of the first room are a few maps of Corsica dating from the eighteenth century, some deadly "vendetta" daggers and two handsome pairs of pistols belonging to Napoleon's father. The next-door Alcove Room was, according to tradition, occupied by Napoleon in 1799 when he stayed here for the last time, while in the third room you can see the sofa upon which the future emperor first saw the light of day on August 15, 1769. Adjoining the heavily restored long gallery is a tiny room known as the Trapdoor Room, whence Letizia and her children made their getaway from the marauding Paolists. Napoleon was baptized in 1771 in the Cathedral (Mon-Sat 8am-6pm; no tourist visits on Sun), around the corner in rue Forcioli-Conti. Modelled on St Peter's in Rome, it was built in 1587-93 on a much smaller scale than intended, owing to lack of funds - an apology for its diminutive size is inscribed in a plaque inside, on the wall to the left as you enter. Inside, to the right of the door, stands the font where he was dipped at the age of 23 months; his sister, Elisa Baciochi, donated the great marble altar in 1811. Before you go, take a look in the chapel to the left of the altar, which houses a gloomy Delacroix painting of the Virgin. A left turn at the eastern end of rue Forcioli-Conti brings you onto boulevard Danielle-Casanova. Here, opposite the citadel, an elaborately carved capital marks the entrance to Musee Capitellu (May-Oct Mon-Wed 10am-noon & 2-6pm; 25F/?3.80), a tiny museum mainly given over to offering a picture of domestic life in nineteenth-century Ajaccio. The house belonged to a wealthy Ajaccien family, the Baciochi, who were related to Napoleon through his sister's marriage. Amid the watercolour landscapes and marble busts, the glass display cases hold the most fascinating exhibits, including a rare edition of the first history of Corsica, written by Agostino Giustiniani, a bishop of the Nebbio who drowned in 1536, and the 1769 Code Corse, a list of laws set out by Louis XV for the newly occupied Corsica. Opposite the museum, the restored citadel , a hexagonal fortress and tower stuck out on a wide promontory into the sea, is occupied by the military and usually closed to the public. Founded in the 1490s, the fort wasn't completed until the occupation of Ajaccio by Sampiero Corso and the powerful Marshal Thermes in 1553-58. The building overlooks the town beach , plage St-Francois, a short curve of yellow sand which faces the expansive mountain-ringed bay. Several flights of steps lead down to the beach from boulevard Danielle-Casanova.
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