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When you cross the Vilaine on the way south, you are not only leaving the Morbihan departement but technically also leaving Brittany itself. The roads veer firmly east and west - to Nantes or La Baule , avoiding the marshes of the Grande-Briere . For centuries these 20,000 acres of peat bog have been deemed to be the common property of all who lived in them. The scattered population, the Brierois , made and make their living by fishing for eels in the streams, gathering reeds and - on the nine days permitted each year - cutting the peat. Tourism has arrived only recently, and is resented. The touted attraction is renting a punt to get yourself lost for a few hours with your pole tangled in the rushes.
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