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Some 17km north of Pontarlier, the D67 splits west off the N57 and plunges precipitously into the Valley of the Loue . A couple of kilometres above the village of Ouhans lies the source of the river, issuing from an enormous rock beneath a tiered cliff, in winter entirely fringed with icicles. From this point you can continue on foot along the GR595 footpath down the valley bounded by densely wooded limestone cliffs, a descent no less dramatic by road, which passes through a string of pretty villages. Roughly halfway between Pontarlier and Besancon, ORNANS is the prettiest of all, an archetypal Franche-Comte town that has become the touristic focal point of the valley. The Loue here is an abrupt trench with the river washing the foundations of ancient balconied houses. The town is easily appreciated from the numerous footbridges spanning the river. Pierre Vernier, inventor of the eponymous gauge, and the painter Gustave Courbet were both born here: the latter's house is now the Musee de la Maison Natale de Gustave Courbet (daily 10am-noon & 2-6pm; Nov-March closed Tues; 20F/3.05), displaying some of his drawings, sculpture and locally painted scenes. The tourist office is at 7 rue Pierre Vernier (April-June, Sept, Oct & school hols Mon-Sat 9.30am-noon & 2-6pm; July & Aug Mon-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 10am-noon & 3-6pm; Nov-March Mon-Fri 10am-noon & 3-5pm; tel & fax 03.81.62.21.50). There's accommodation in the form of the riverside Hotel Le Progres , 11 rue Jacques Gervais (tel 03.81.62.16.79, fax 03.81.62.19.10; 160-220F/24-34), and the pricier but better-placed de la Cascade (tel 03.81.60.95.30, fax 03.81.60.94.55; 220-300F/34-46), in the centre of MOUTHIER , further down the D67. There are campsites and gites d'etapes in Ornans, Vuillifans and Mouthier.
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