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MONTBELIARD is not far from Belfort and, because of the Peugeot factory (the second car production plant to be created in Europe), is another thriving industrial town. There are some unexpected pleasures in Montbeliard, however: the town has been part of France only since 1793, so the architecture of the old town has a strong Germanic look. The imposing Chateau des Ducs de Wurtemburg (daily except Tues 10am-noon & 2-6pm; 30F/4.57), constructed during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, has been restored to house various exhibitions: there is always a specialist international exhibition as well as the permanent display of the collection of famous French zoologist Georges Cuvier, who was born in Montbeliard and whose work paved the way for Darwin. There is also a display of the Gallo-Roman objects found nearby at the remains of the huge Roman theatre at Mandeure, 8km south of Montbeliard, just off the D437 (rue du Theatre, Mandeure; daily 24hr; free). The old houses around the chateau have been repainted in their original colours. Note the circular stairwells, always at the back of the house - an architectural curiosity developed in the days when space was taxed, as part of an elaborate tax-avoidance scheme. The Bourg des Halles covered market was built in the sixteenth century, and is another fine Germanic building. Every two years in December there is a fabulous exhibition (the next one is 2003) of crazy mechanical vehicles/moveable sculptures, "Quand les Machines Rient: au Pays de Montbeliard", followed by a New Year's Eve procession , "Le Reveillon des Boulons", when the machines and their creators fill the streets like surrealist Peugeots. There is an outdoor Christmas market , "Lumieres de Noel", every year around the St-Martin church, and also a three-kilometre labyrinth at the Parc du Pres-la-Rose . The tourist office is at 1 rue Henri Mouhot (mid-June to mid-Sept Mon-Fri 9am-noon & 1.30-7pm, Sat 9am-noon & 1.30-6pm, Sun 10am-noon & 2-4pm; mid-Sept to mid-June Mon-Fri 9am-noon & 1.30-6pm, Sat 9am-noon & 1.30-6pm; tel 03.81.94.45.60, fax 03.81.94.14.04, www.montbeliard.com ). For local events, which may influence whether you stay in Montbeliard or Belfort, which both have some good music and art festivals, get the free cultural magazine Atmosphere , or Montbeliard Magazine , available in tourist offices. For accommodation , the choice is slightly better in Belfort, but Montbeliard does have its fair share: try the Hotel-Restaurant l'Auberge Mon Repos , 8 rue des Grands-Jardins (tel 03.81.94.52.67; 160-220F/24-34), which is very peaceful with a large garden, or the Hotel de la Balance , 40 rue de Belfort (tel 03.81.96.77.41, fax 03.81.91.47.16; 220-300F/34-46), in the old town, which also has a restaurant with menus from 69F/10.52. There are plenty of outdoor cafes in the old town area: Cafe de la Paix , 12 rue des Febvres, near Les Halles, is a nice place to relax. There is also an Internet cafe (few and far between in this part of France) in the Centre des Images: Cybercentre , 2 cour des Halles (tel 03.81.91.10.85; Mon-Fri 4-7pm, Sat 2-6pm; 10F/1.52 per hour).
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