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South of Champagnole, the flattened plateau, unable to shed the Haute Jura's winter run-off, collects the meltwaters in a series of natural and not-so-natural lakes, known as the Region des Lacs , loosely strung along the valley of the River Ain. Where the ground begins to crumple upward to the eastern summits, gorges and waterfalls highlight each successive step, and lookouts survey the tiny villages, each with its characteristic domed belfry beaten from metal or composed from a mosaic of tiles and slates. Some of the lakes charge parking fees during the day, but after 6pm, when the crowds and swimming supervisors go home, the lakes are deserted and peaceful - perfect for an evening picnic watching the sun set.
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