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From Morez, the train line leaves the N5 and heads along the Gorges de la Bienne to the industrial town of ST-CLAUDE to the southwest, hemmed in claustrophobically by even higher mountains than those around Morez. It's famous for pipes (the smokers' kind) and diamonds, and there's a museum , the Exposition des Pipes et Diamants (May, June & Sept daily 9.30am-noon & 2-6.30pm; July & Aug daily 9.30am-6.30pm; rest of year Mon-Sat 2-6pm; closed Nov & Dec; 25F/?3.91), dedicated to both of these opposite the fortified cathedral of St-Pierre on rue du Marche. The tourist office , 19 rue du Marche (July & Aug Mon-Fri 8.30am-7pm, Sat 9am-noon & 2-6pm, Sun 10am-1pm; Sept-June Mon-Fri 8.30am-noon & 2-6.30pm, Sat 9am-noon & 2-6pm; tel 03.84.45.34.24), distributes a free leaflet in English, The City's Discovery Tour , which gives a florid description of a two-hour walk around the town. Should you wish to stay here, try the Hotel de la Poste , on rue Reybert (tel 03.84.45.52.34; under 160F/?24), opposite the tourist office. Plusher accommodation can be found at the Jura Hotel , 40 av de la Gare (tel 03.84.45.24.04, fax 03.84.45.58.10; 160-220F/?24-34), or Le Joly (tel 03.84.45.12.36; 220-300F/?34-46) in Le Martinet, 3km southwest of town on the Col de la Faucille road, right next to a campsite. Wholesome, inexpensive food is served at the restaurant of Hotel St-Hubert on the place St-Hubert and at Brasserie le Lacuzon , at 5 rue Victor-Hugo. What gives purpose to the rest of the onward route from either St-Claude or Les Rousses are the superb views from the crest of the great fir-clad ridge that overlooks Lac Leman to the east. The N5 crosses the ridge at the Col de la Faucille (1323m). If it's clear, the view is unbelievably dramatic from the Col or the GR footpath; the whole range of the western Alps stretches out before you, dominated by Mont Blanc, with the steely cusp of Lac Leman at your feet. There's an even better view from the top of nearby Mont Rond (1534m), accessible by chair lift. Of course, if it's not clear, the journey will have been in vain, but if you're carrying on south of Geneva, 30km away, it's downhill all the way - with the thought of some revitalizing bars of Swiss chocolate at the day's end.
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