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At the southeastern edge of the Foret de Chaux, some 35km south of Besancon, is the unfinished eighteenth-century "salt city" of the Saline Royale d'Arc-et-Senans (April-June, Sept & Oct 9am-noon & 2-6pm; July & Aug 9am-7pm; Nov-March 10am-noon & 2-5pm; 39F/?5.95), commissioned by royal decree in 1773 to replace the ageing works at Salins-les-Bains . The complex, dreamed up by the Revolutionary architect Claude-Nicolas Ledoux, was to have become a model utopian city. His grandiose project reflected the egalitarian social concerns of the pre-Revolutionary era: the settlement was to have radiated along the primary axes of a clock-face from a nucleus housing the administrative offices, distillation plants, public baths and other municipal utilities. Sadly, the socio-aesthetic ideals could not overcome the works' functional deficiencies: the pipeworks linking the new plant with Salins deteriorated rapidly and only half of the central arc was ever completed. Salt production continued until the end of the nineteenth century, but all that remains today is the impressively restored semicircle of eleven buildings, a monumental epitaph to Ledoux's unconsummated vision. The beautiful complex now houses two museums, usually with exhibitions about architecture. SALINS-LES-BAINS , 15km southeast of Arc-et-Senans, is worth a further detour (back along the tree-lined country road that leads to the entrance to the Saline Royale). Confined at the bottom of a narrow valley piercing the flank of the Jura's central plateau, the recuperative spa town of Salins has been producing salt for around a thousand years. The Chalon family moved in on the town in the thirteenth century and the wealth they accrued from the control and sale of the "white gold" essential for the preservation of food enabled them to become among the most influential of the Comte's medieval overlords. This prominence, as well as the town's key position on the route to Switzerland, accounts for the two lofty forts overlooking the town, which are good walking destinations. The Salines de Salins , or brine-wells (one-hour guided tours daily: Feb-Easter & mid-Sept to Nov 10.30am, 2.30pm & 4pm; Easter to mid-Sept hourly 9-11am & 2.30-5.30pm; closed Jan & Dec; 25F/?3.81), are inevitably the town's main attraction: once inside the vaulted underground galleries, you are shown the pumps which drew up the brine solution from the rock salt that was too deep to mine, while other salt-related activities are also innovatively depicted. The tourist office is on place des Salines (daily 9am-noon & 2-6pm; Nov-Easter closed Sun; tel 03.84.73.01.34, fax 03.84.37.92.85). Having styled itself as a spa town since the 1840s (and still doing so), Salins has some grand hotels that once accommodated the fashionably ailing gentry. The Grand Hotel des Bains , in place des Allies (tel 03.84.37.90.50, fax 03.84.37.96.80; 220-300F/?34-46), offers comfortable accommodation. Alternatively, try the old-fashioned Hotel des Deux Forts , in place du Vigneron (tel 03.84.37.93.75; 160-220F/?24-34), or the Bon Accueil , on 50 rue de la Liberte, north of the central square (tel 03.84.37.94.31; 160-220F/?24-34), which is slightly less expensive, and has a cafe/restaurant with menus from 60F/?9.15. There is a campsite (tel 03.84.37.92.70; May-Sept) on avenue General-de-Gaulle.
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