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SELESTAT , midway between Strasbourg and Colmar, is a delightful, relatively cosmopolitan old town, which makes a good base for exploring the central and most popular section of the route. The choice of reasonable accommodation is better than average, and the town itself contains a couple of interesting churches and a great museum for bibliophiles. The oldest and finest of the two churches is the church of Ste-Foy . Built by the monks of Conques, it has been much restored since but its clean, austerely Romanesque lines have not been entirely wiped out. Close by, to the north, the much larger Gothic church of St-Georges sports spectacularly multicoloured roof tiles and some very fine stained glass. For a brief period in the late fifteenth and early sixteenth centuries, Selestat was the intellectual centre of Alsace, due mainly to its Latin School, which attracted a group of Humanists led by Beatus Rhenanus, whose personal library was one of the most impressive collections of its time. At the Bibliotheque Humaniste , housed in the town's former corn exchange just by St-Georges (July & Aug Mon & Wed-Sat 9am-noon & 2-6pm, Sun 2-6pm; rest of year Mon & Wed-Fri 9am-noon & 2-6pm, Sat 9am-noon; 20F/3.05), Rhenanus' collection is now on display along with some unusual and very rare books and manuscripts from as far back as the seventh century. Selestat is comparatively well served transport-wise, with frequent train connections to Strasbourg and Colmar, as well as a branch line that heads north to Strasbourg via Molsheim; the gare SNCF is west of the town centre down avenue de la Liberte. For a place to stay , there's none better than the comfortable, friendly Auberge des Allies , 39 rue des Chevaliers, in the middle of town (tel 03.88.92.09.34, fax 03.88.92.12.88; 220-300F/34-46; closed Sun evening & Mon); its restaurant is good value and worth a look for its splendid tiled stove (menus 98-240F/14.94-36.59). A funky modern alternative is the Vaillant on place de la Republique (tel 03.88.92.09.46; 220-300F/34-46; restaurant 95-225F/14.48-34.30) - the groovy lifesize statue in the foyer is called Tom. There's a campsite , Les Cigognes (tel 03.88.92.03.98; May to mid-Oct), south of the centre behind Vauban's remaining ramparts. Further information is available from the tourist office by the ring road on boulevard du General-Leclerc (May-Sept Mon-Fri 9am-12.30pm & 1.30-7pm, Sat 9am-noon & 2-5pm, Sun 9am-3pm; Oct-April Mon-Fri 8.30am-noon & 1.30-6pm, Sat 9am-noon & 2-5pm; tel 03.88.58.87.20, fax 03.88.92.88.63).
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