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Alsace is a region both blessed and cursed by tourism, and no more so than along the so-called Route du Vin , which stretches from Marlenheim, west of Strasbourg, to Thann, near Mulhouse. The problem with Alsace is that, left to its own devices, it stays on the right side of Disneyland but, under the impact of tourism and the desire to make money, it comes close to caricaturing itself. Set against the "blue line of the Vosges", the route winds north-south through endless terraced vineyards which produce the region's famous fruity white wines. Opportunities for tasting the local produce are plentiful, with free degustations along the roadside, in the caveaux of most villages and at the region's countless wine festivals. For a closer look at the vines themselves you can follow various sentiers vinicoles (vineyard paths); local tourist offices have details. In the midst of this sea of vines are dozens of flowery and typically picturesque Alsatian villages, dominated from the heights above by an extraordinary number of ancient ruined castles, testimony to the province's turbulent past. The Route du Vin is deceptively hilly work on a bike, but getting around is definitely easier with your own transport. Otherwise you're dependent either on the train, which narrowly misses some of the best villages, or the region's poor bus service. In summer there's a wine festival each weekend in a different town, with degustations , bargains, tarte flambee and traditional Alsatian music.
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