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The Chartreuse Massif , designated in 1995 as the Parc Naturel Regional de Chartreuse, stretches north from Grenoble towards Chambery and, like Vercors, it is not easy to visit without your own vehicle. The landscape, however, is spectacular, and very different to that of the Vercors: precipitous limestone peaks, mountain pastures and thick forest. The main local landmark is the Grande Chartreuse monastery , situated up the narrow Gorges des Guiers Mort, southeast of St-Laurent-du-Port, and some 35km from Grenoble, one of seventeen Carthusian monasteries still functioning. The Carthusian Order, dating from the twelfth century, was the last great monastic reform movement, and was founded in answer to the degeneration of the Cistercian Order. Practising a strictly hermit-like existence, its members live in cells and meet only for Mass and a weekly communal meal, eaten in silence. Since 1605, however, the Carthusians have been better known as the producers of Chartreuses - powerfully alcoholic herbal elixirs, ranging from the better known green and yellow variants to a variety of gentler fruit liqueurs. The monastery is not open to the public, but near the village of ST-PIERRE-EN-CHARTREUSE , 5km back on the Grenoble road, you can visit the Musee de la Grande Chartreuse , formerly La Correrie monastery, which illustrates the life of the Carthusian Order (April-Oct daily 9.30am-noon & 2-6pm; 15F/?2.29). St-Pierre is also known for its annual festival devoted to Belgian-born singer Jacques Brel, which takes place in July. More information about the festival can be found at the tourist office at 58 cours Becquart-Castelban in Voiron , the main town in the area, which is 30km west of St-Pierre (mid-June to Sept Mon-Fri & Sun 8.30am-noon & 2-6.30pm, Sat 8.30am-noon & 2-5.30pm; rest of year closed Sun; tel 04.76.05.00.38). While in Voisin, head for the Caves de Chartreuse , on boulevard Edgar-Kofler (daily: Easter-June, Sept & Oct 8.30-11.30am & 2-6pm; July & Aug 8.30am-6.30pm; Nov-Easter Mon-Fri 8.30-11.30am & 2-5.30pm), for a free visit and tasting of the sticky yellow or green liqueur. If you are looking for a hotel , St-Pierre has several options, the best of which is Beau Site (tel 04.76.88.61.34, christophesestier@csi.com ; 300-400F/?46-61; closed mid-Oct to Dec), while in Voiron you can stay at the small but comfortable La Chaumiere (tel 04.76.05.16.24, fax 04.76.05.13.27; 300-400F/?46-61). Just south of St-Pierre, at the gorge's eastern end, a narrow road leads a couple of kilometres south to the village of ST-HUGUES . Its otherwise ordinary-looking church (Feb-Dec Wed-Sun 9am-noon & 2-7pm; free) has been transformed inside by local artist Jean-Marie Pirot (aka Arcabas), who was originally commissioned to redecorate the interior in 1953 and ended up making it his life's work. His paintings, tapestries, statues and, most notably, the stained glass make an unusual and striking impression and have earned Arcabas and the church a worldwide reputation.
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