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A few kilometres out of Le Bourg, southeast on the N91, the ascent into the Gorges de l'Infernet commences as the slate-black valley walls close around you, broadening out again as you cross the Barrage du Lac du Chambon, where roads diverge to the resort of Les Deux-Alpes and the Col de Sarennes to the north. Continuing towards La Grave you'll pass two waterfalls issuing from the north side of the valley: early summer run-off will enhance the slender, 300-metre plume of the Cascade de la Pisse , while, 6km further on, the near-vertical fall of churning white water ironically called the Saut de la Pucelle ("the flea's leap") is a breathtaking sight. LA GRAVE , 26km from Le Bourg at the foot of the Col du Lautaret, faces the majestic glaciers of the north side of La Meije . It's a good base for walking: the GR54 climbs up to Le Chazelet on the slopes northwest of the village and continues to the Plateau de Paris and the Lac Noir , which affords breathtaking views of La Meije. A similar and less energetic appreciation of these stunning vistas can be made by taking the cable car close to the 3200-metre summit of Le Rateau, just west of La Meije (late June to early Sept 108F/?16.47 return; late Dec to early May 187F/?28.52 return), a 35-minute ride that's very good value for money when you consider that the view of the barely accessible interior of the Ecrins is normally seen by only the most intrepid mountain-walkers. From La Grave it's only 11km to the top of the Col du Lautaret , a pass that's been in use for centuries. The Roman road from Milan to Vienne crossed it, and its name comes from the small temple ( altaretum ) the Romans built to placate the deity of the mountains. They called it collis de altareto . Around the col is a huge expanse of meadow long known to botanists for its glorious variety of Alpine flowers, seen at their best in mid-July. You'll also find a Jardin Alpin here, maintained by the University of Grenoble (daily 8am-noon & 2-6pm; July & Aug: 25F/?3.81, rest of year free), which includes plants from mountain ranges throughout the world. This is a great spot for picnicking or lounging while waiting for a ride, for the view into the glaciers hanging off La Meije is intoxicating.
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