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Relatively easy to reach by rail from Ostrobothnia or Kainuu, ROVANIEMI is touted as the capital of Lapland, though it's more an administrative than cultural capital, and the tourists who arrive on day-trips from Helsinki expecting sleighs and tents are normally disappointed. The wooden huts of old Rovaniemi were razed by departing Germans at the close of World War II, and the town was completely rebuilt during the late 1940s. Alvar Aalto's bold but impractical design has the roads forming the shape of reindeer antlers - fine if you're travelling by helicopter but it makes journeys on foot far longer than they need be. Rovaniemi is a likeable enough town, though most visitors only use it as a short-term stopover, or to study Sami culture. Aside from eating reindeer in the local restaurants, the best way to prepare yourself for what lies further north is to visit the 172m-long glass tunnel of Arktikum , Pohjoisranta 4 (May-Aug daily 10am-6pm; Sept-April closed Mon; ?10), symbolically pointing north across Ounasjoki from its surrounding landscape of arctic flora. Subterranean galleries along one side house the Provincial Museum of Lapland , a thoughtful museum placing genuine Sami crafts and costumes alongside the imitations sold in souvenir shops to emphasize the romanticization of their culture. It also demonstrates the changes in the use of tools and clothing - anoraks and Wellington boots have replaced traditional apparel, which has caused a young generation of Sami to be plagued by rheumatism and foot trouble. Across the corridor is the Arctic Centre , which gives a thorough treatment of all things circumpolar, from Inuit and Aleut languages to mineral exploration and hunting from kayaks decked out in walrus-gut waterproofs. The remaining sights are on the south side of town near the bus and train stations , where pristine Aalto-designed civic buildings line Hallituskatu. Lappia House (pre-booked guided tours only call 016/3562096) has a theatre and concert hall, and next door, the library (Mon-Thur 11am-8pm, Fri 11am-5pm, Sat 10am-4pm) has a Lapland Department with a staggering hoard of books in many languages covering every Sami-related subject. Most other things of interest are outside town, not least the Arctic Circle , 8km north and connected by the half hourly bus #8 from the bus station - though there's not much to see on arrival. Near the circle and served by the same buses, is Santa Claus Village (daily: Dec & June-Aug 9am-7pm; rest of the year 10am-5pm; free), a large log cabin where you can meet Father Christmas all year round and leave your name for a Christmas card from Santa himself. South of the Arctic Circle, the Midnight Sun is visible from town for a couple of weeks either side of midsummer, the best vantage points being the striking "Lumberjack's Candlestick" bridge or atop the conifer and mosquito-clad hill, Ounasvaara.
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