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Leisurely draped across islands, SAVONLINNA is one of the most relaxed towns in Finland, a woodworking centre that also makes a decent living from tourism and its renowned annual opera festival ( www.operafestival.fi ) in July. It's packed throughout summer and if you haven't booked well ahead don't expect to find somewhere to stay. However, out of peak season its streets and beaches are uncluttered, and the town's easy-going mood makes it a pleasant place to linger. The best locations for soaking up the atmosphere are the harbour and market square ( kauppatori ) at the end of Olavinkatu, where you can cast an eye over the grand Seurahuone Hotel , with its Art Nouveau fripperies, facing the market hall ( kauppahalli ). Follow the harbour around Linnankatu, or better still around the sandy edge of Pihlajavesi, which brings you to atmospheric and surprisingly well-preserved Olavinlinna Castle (daily: June to mid-Aug 10am-5pm; rest of year 10am-3pm; visits by hourly guided tours only; ?3.40), perched on a small island. After being founded in 1475, the castle witnessed a series of bloody conflicts until the Russians claimed possession of it in 1743 and relegated it to being the town jail. Nearby is the Savonlinna Regional Museum (July daily 10am-6pm; Aug daily 11am-5pm; Sept-June Tues-Sun 11am-5pm; ?3.40), which occupies an old granary and displays an intriguing account of the evolution of local life, with rock paintings and ancient amber carved with human figures.
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