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Superficially cosmopolitan, with smart broad streets and modern buildings, KUOPIO is the only city in a vast expanse of countryside, and its earthy peasant heritage is always felt: traditional dress is common, sophistication is rare, and everything takes a back seat to unbridled revelry when the night comes. All the sights are within the immediate central area, with one exception: the wonderful Orthodox Church Museum , Karjalankatu 1 (May-Aug Tues-Sun 10am-4pm; Sept-April Mon-Fri noon-3pm, Sat & Sun noon-5pm; ?3.40), set on the brow of the hill at Kuopio's northwest corner. The museum houses many objects from the nearby Valamo Monastery, and it's easy to spend several hours wandering around elaborate icons, gold-embossed Bibles and other extravagant items. Back in the centre, the block formed by Kirkkokatu and Kuninkaankatu holds the Kuopio Open-Air Museum (mid-May to mid-Sept daily 10am-5pm, Wed until 7pm; mid-Sept to mid-May Tues-Sun 10am-3pm; ?2.50), whose buildings, still in their original locations, have interiors decked out to show housing conditions of ordinary townspeople from the late eighteenth century to the 1930s. Another interesting old building, J.V. Snellman's Home , is situated nearby at Snellmaninkatu 19 (mid-May to mid-Sept daily 10am-5pm, Wed till 7pm; rest of year by appointment, call 017/182624; ?7). Snellman lived here after the Swedish-speaking ruling class expelled him from his university post in 1843; he became head of the local school and continued his struggle to have Finnish granted the status of official language.
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