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South of Esplanadi on Korkeavourenkatu, the excellent Museum of Art & Design (Mon-Fri noon-7pm, Sat & Sun noon-6pm; ?8.50) traces the relationship between art and industry in Finnish history, with explanatory texts and period exhibits. Northwest of here is the Vanha kirkko (Old Church). Engel's humble wooden structure was the first Lutheran church to be erected after Helsinki became the capital. A few blocks from the end of Kasarminkatu is the large and rocky Kaivopuisto park, where nobility from St Petersburg came to sample the waters at its 1830s spa house. The park also contains the Mannerheim Museum (Fri-Sun 11am-4pm; ?6.80, includes guided tour), the house where the famous Finnish commander spent his later years. Mannerheim led the Whites during the Russian Civil War of 1918, and two decades later the Finnish campaigns in the Winter and Continuation Wars. His political influence was considerable, including a brief spell as president. The interior - cluttered with the plunder of his travels - is much as it was when he died in 1951. Close by is the yellow-turreted house of another famous Finn, the nineteenth century philanthropist Frederik Cygnaeus. Inside, the beautifully laid-out Cygnaeus Gallery (Wed 11am-7pm, Thurs-Sun 11am-4pm; ?2.50), displays his collection of bird and nature studies by the von Wright brothers.
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