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Beyond the beach at Sandsend, a fine coastal walk through pretty Runswick Bay leads in around four hours to the fishing village of STAITHES ; road access is along the A174. At first sight, it's an improbably beautiful grouping of huddled stone houses around a small harbour, backed by the severe outcrop of Cowbar Nab, a sheer cliff face which protects the northern flank of the village. Storms and floods have battered Staithes for centuries: the Cod & Lobster , the pub at the harbour, has been rebuilt three times and is shuttered against the wind, while the draper's shop in which James Cook first worked before moving to Whitby collapsed completely in 1745 - its rebuilt successor is now marked by a plaque. Cook is remembered in the Captain Cook and Staithes Heritage Centre , on the High Street (daily 10am-5.30pm; GBP1.75), which re-creates an eighteenth-century street among other interesting exhibits. You could stay at one of the B&Bs in the houses at the top of the village, but better accommodation is available down below, either at the Endeavour Restaurant (tel 01947/840825; no credit cards; GBP50-60; closed Sun in winter) - itself the best place to eat for miles around, with superb (but pricey) fresh-fish meals - or at the Black Lion (tel 01947/841132; GBP40-50), a pub with cosy fires and a decent bar menu. There's camping back up the road out of the village at Staithes Caravan Park , Warp Mill (tel 01947/840291; closed Nov-Feb).
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