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Of English literary shrines, probably only Stratford sees more visitors than the quarter of a million who swarm annually into the village of HAWORTH to tramp the cobbles once trodden by the Bronte sisters. Quite why the sheltered life of the Brontes should exert such a powerful fascination is a puzzle, though the contrast of their pinched provincial existences with the brooding moors and tumultuous passions of Wuthering Heights may well form part of the answer. Whatever the reasons, during the summer the village's steep, cobbled Main Street is lost under huge crowds, herded by multilingual signs around the various stations on the Bronte trail.

Of these, the Bronte Parsonage Museum , at the top of the main street (April-Sept daily 10am-5.30pm; Oct-March daily 11am-5pm; GBP4.80), is the obvious focus, a modest Georgian house bought by Patrick Bronte in 1820 to bring up his family. After the tragic early loss of his wife and two eldest daughters, the surviving four children - Anne, Emily, Charlotte and their brother, Branwell - spent most of their short lives in the place, which is furnished as it was in their day, and filled with the sisters' pictures, books, manuscripts and personal treasures. The parish church in front of the parsonage - substantially rebuilt since the Brontes lived here - contains the family vault. At the Sunday School , between the parsonage and the church, Charlotte, Anne and even Branwell did weekly teaching stints; Branwell, however, was undoubtedly more at home in the Black Bull , a pub within staggering distance of the parsonage near the top of Main Street. He got his opium at the pharmacist's over the road (now

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a gift shop).

The most popular walk runs to Bronte Falls and Bridge , reached via West Lane and a track from the village, and to Top Withens , a mile beyond, a ruin fancifully thought to be the model for Wuthering Heights (3hr round trip). The moorland setting beautifully evokes the flavour of the book, and to enjoy it further you could walk on another two and a half miles to Ponden Hall , perhaps the Thrushcross Grange of Wuthering Heights .


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8/29/2008 8:56:26 AM

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