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The East Yorkshire coast curves south in a gentle arc from the mighty cliffs of Flamborough Head to Spurn Head, a finger-thin isthmus formed by the constant erosion and shifting currents that scour much of England's eastern shores. Between the two lie a handful of tranquil villages and miles of windswept dunes and mudflats, noted bird sanctuaries, and superbly lonely retreats accessible to anyone prepared to cycle or walk the paths and lanes that fan out amidst the dunes. The two main resorts, Bridlington and Filey, are linked by the regular train service between Hull and Scarborough. There's also an hourly bus service between Bridlington, Filey and Scarborough. The southernmost major resort on the Yorkshire coast, BRIDLINGTON has maintained its harbour for almost a thousand years, though for much of that time it remained a small-scale place of little consequence. Renovations have smartened up the seafront promenade, which looks down upon the town's best asset - its sweeping sandy beach . It's an out-and-out family resort, which means plenty of candy-floss, amusement arcades, rides, and other diversions. The tourist office , 25 Prince St (Easter-Oct Mon-Sat 9.30am-5.30pm, Sun 9am-5pm; Nov-Easter Mon-Sat 9.30am-5.30pm; tel 01262/673474), has full lists of local accommodation. Around fourteen miles of precipitous four-hundred-foot cliffs gird Flamborough Head , just to the northeast of Bridlington, a chalky knuckle whose 1979 designation as a Heritage Coast has guaranteed a degree of protection not only for a multitude of breeding seabirds, but also for a wealth of geological and archeological features. To see the best of Flamborough Head's coastline, try to walk at least part of the signposted Heritage Coast path , a grassy cliff-top track that negotiates most of the headland. One good place to join it is BEMPTON , two miles north of Bridlington. From Bempton, you can follow the path all the way round to Flamborough Head or curtail by cutting up paths to Flamborough village. The Seabirds (tel 01262 674174), at the junction of the roads to the two villages, is a nice pub with a good line in fresh-fish bar meals. FILEY , half a dozen miles further north up the coast has a deal more class as a resort, retaining many of its Edwardian features, including some splendid panoramic gardens. It, too, claims miles of wide sandy beach , stretching most of the way south to Flamborough Head and north the mile or so to the jutting rocks of Filey Brigg . If you're going to clamber around on the Brigg, check the tide tables first since people do get caught unawares by the incoming waters. Bus and train stations are just west of the centre on Station Road. Walk down Station Avenue and Murray Street to Filey's tourist office in the Borough Council offices on John Street (May-Sept daily 9.30am-5.30pm; Oct-April Sat & Sun 10am-4.30pm; tel 01723/518000). You'll find a clutch of standard B&Bs on Rutland Street, off West Avenue, which runs from the church in the centre of town. A couple of pricier hotels sit amongst the holiday flats down on the beachfront. Downcliffe House (tel 01723/513310; GBP50-60) is the pick of them, with a seaview restaurant serving a decent menu of fresh fish.
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