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For years, the bleak expanse of Piccadilly Gardens divided rather than united the city, though a recent beautification project has dramatically enhanced its character. The gardens are the gateway to the still shabby but improving Oldham Street, which has been adopted by "alternative" entrepreneurs who have dubbed it the Northern Quarter . Traditionally, this is Manchester's garment district and you'll still find shops and wholesalers selling high-street fashions, shop fittings, mannequins and hosiery, but there are also new design outlets, lots of music stores, and some funky bars and cafes. The excellent Manchester Craft and Design Centre , 17 Oak St (Mon-Sat 10am-5.30pm; free), is a great place to pick up ceramics, fabrics, earthenware, jewellery and decorative art, or just sip a drink in the cosy cafe.
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