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There's been a long rivalry between Newcastle and Sunderland, twelve miles to the southeast: both cities outraged about being lumped together in the municipal appellation Tyne and Wear; both Geordies (from Newcastle) or Mackems (from Sunderland) indignant at being taken for the other by know-nothing southerners; with supporters of both passionately followed football teams cock-a-hoop at the old enemy's misfortunes. To an outsider it can seem at times to be a bewildering argument over nothing at all, but whisper in Wearside at your peril the obviously superior charms of Newcastle as a city. Yet Sunderland and the River Wear do have their attractions, and in the adjacent new town of Washington stands one of the more intriguing historic sites of the northeast.
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