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WARKWORTH , a coastal hamlet set in a loop of the River Coquet a couple of miles from Amble, is best seen from the north, from where the grey-stone terraces of the long main street slope up towards the commanding remains of Warkworth Castle (daily: April-Sept 10am-6pm; Oct 10am-5pm; Nov-March 10am-1pm & 2-4pm; GBP2.50; EH). Enough remains of the outer wall to give a clear impression of the layout of the medieval bailey, but - apart from the well-preserved gatehouse through which the site is entered - nothing catches your attention as much as the keep . Mostly built in the fourteenth century, this three-storeyed structure, with its polygonal turrets and high central tower, has a honeycomb-like interior, a fine example of the designs developed by the castle-builders of Plantagenet England. It was here that most of the Percy family, earls of Northumberland, chose to live throughout the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. The main street sweeps down into the attractive village, flattening out at Dial Place before curving right to cross the River Coquet; just over the bridges - a modern affair flanked by a splendid medieval turreted span - a signposted quarter-mile lane leads to the beach , which stretches for five miles from Amble to Alnmouth. Back in Dial Place stands the church of St Lawrence , whose many Norman features include the impressive ribbed vaulting of the chancel. From the churchyard (or, further up, from below the castle), a delightful path heads the half-mile inland along the peaceful right bank of the Coquet to the little boat that shuttles visitors across to Warkworth Hermitage (April-Sept Wed & Sun 11am-5pm; GBP1.70; EH), hewn out of the cliff above the river sometime in the fourteenth century. Warkworth is on the route of the bus service linking Alnwick, Alnmouth and Newcastle, and buses stop in Dial Place, near the church. For such a small village, Warkworth possesses a surprising number of accommodation and eating options. There are several B&Bs just on the other side of the Coquet bridges and handy for the beach, including Beck'n'Call (tel 01665/711653; GBP40-50). The top spot is the splendid Sun Hotel , 6 Castle Terrace (tel 01665/711259; GBP70-90), which commands fine views from its perch between the castle and the river, whether from the spacious, pine-furnished bedrooms, the restaurant which specializes in local fare, or the bar and beer garden. Good rooms are also available down the hill at the Hermitage Inn (tel 01665/711258; GBP40-50), a cosy place with well-kept beers and decent bar meals. At the Greenhouse , opposite on the corner of Dial Place (closed Tues & Sun eves), salmon kebabs, cassoulet, and other bistro favourites are served on stripped pine tables.
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