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Heading northeast out of Alnwick along the B1340, it's a six-mile hop to the region's kipper capital, the tiny fishing village of CRASTER , perched above its minuscule harbour. There's not a great deal to make you stop long, but you can buy kippers here at Robson's factory and have a pot of tea in the Bark Pots . Even better is the Jolly Fisherman , the pub above the harbour, with sea views from its back window and famously good crab sandwiches. Most spectacularly, however, the village provides access to Dunstanburgh Castle (April-Sept daily 10am-6pm; Oct daily 10am-5pm; Nov-March Wed-Sun 10am-4pm; GBP1.90; NT & EH), whose shattered medieval ruins occupy a magnificent promontory about thirty minutes' windy walk up the coast. Originally built in the fourteenth century, parts of the surrounding walls survive - offering heart-stopping views down to the crashing sea below - though the dominant feature is the massive keep-gatehouse which stands out from miles around on the bare coastal spur. Half a dozen buses a day (the #501/#401) run to Craster from Alnwick, a half-hour journey; the service continues to Beadnell, Seahouses and Bamburgh. There's a small tourist office in the village car park (Easter-Oct daily 9.30am-4.30pm; Nov-Easter Sat & Sun 10am-4pm; tel 01665/576007). The best place to stay hereabouts is BEADNELL , nine miles up the coast from Craster, with a couple of fine beaches and the best windsurfing on the northeast's coast - boards can be rented from the Outdoor Trust shed (GBP10/hr, GBP30/day; tel 01665/721241; closed Nov-Feb), along with kayaks, bodyboards and sailing dinghies. Among several accommodation options, the excellent Beach Court on Harbour Road (tel 01665/720225, ; GBP50-60) is a distinctive guest house right next to the shore, with sea views and three lovely rooms. There are several local campsites , including Dunstan Hill (tel 01665/576310; closed Nov-Feb), a mile inland from Dunstanburgh castle, close to the B1339.
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