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Twelve miles east of Woodbridge, on the far side of the Forest of Rendlesham, the tiny village of ORFORD is dominated by two buildings, both of them medieval. The more impressive is the twelfth-century Castle (April-Oct daily 10am-6pm; Nov-March Wed-Sun 10am-1pm & 2-4pm; GBP3.10; EH), built on high ground to the southwest of the village by Henry II, and under siege within months of its completion from Henry's rebellious sons. Most of the castle disappeared centuries ago, but the lofty keep remains, its impressive stature hinting at the scale of the original fortifications. Orford's other medieval edifice, on the far side of the main square, is St Bartholomew's Church , where Benjamin Britten premiered his most successful children's work, Noye's Fludde , as part of the 1958 Aldeburgh Festival. From the top of the castle keep, there's a great view across Orford Ness , a six-mile-long shingle spit that has all but blocked off Orford from the sea since Tudor times. Its mud flats and marshes harbour sea lavender beds, which act as feeding and roosting areas for wildfowl and waders. The National Trust offers boat trips (July-Sept Tues-Sat outward boats between 10am-2pm, last ferry back 5pm; mid-April to June & Oct Sat only; GBP5.60; NT members GBP3.60; tel 01394/450057) across to the Ness from Orford Quay, four hundred yards down the road from the church, and a five-mile hiking trail threads its way along the spit. There are also plenty of walks to be had around Orford itself. One of the best is the five-mile hike north along the river wall that guards the west bank of the River Alde, returning via Ferry Road, a narrow country lane. Orford's gentle, unhurried air is best experienced on a night's stay. Rooms are available at the Crown & Castle (tel 01394/450205, ; GBP70-90), an attractive inn across from the castle with comfortable bedrooms kitted out with all mod cons, and at the marginally less enticing King's Head (tel 01394/450271; GBP50-60), on Market Hill, the main square. For meals , don't miss the Butley Orford Oysterage (tel 01394/450277; closed Nov-March) also on Market Hill. This has a very reasonably priced cafe/restaurant, whose menu focuses on fresh oysters and oak-wood smoked fish. Finally, down near the quay, the Jolly Sailor Inn serves bar meals, teas and coffee.
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