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Seat of the kings of East Anglia, a bishopric and once the largest port on the Suffolk coast, the ancient city of DUNWICH , about twelve miles up the coast from Aldeburgh, reached its peak of prosperity in the twelfth century. Over the last millennium, however, something like a mile of land has been lost to the sea, a process that continues at the rate of about a yard a year. As a result, the whole of the medieval city now lies under the ocean, including all twelve churches, the last of which toppled over the cliffs in 1919. All that survives are fragments of the Greyfriars monastery, which originally lay to the west of the city and now dangles at the sea's edge. For a potted history of the lost city, head for the museum (April-Sept daily 11.30am-4.30pm; Oct daily noon-4pm; free) in what's left of Dunwich - little more than one small street of terraced houses built by the local landowner in the nineteenth century. A sprawling, coastline car park gives ready access to this part of the seashore and is also where fishing boats still sell their daily catch off the shingle beach. From the car park, it's a short stroll west to the village and south to Greyfriars. Or you can hike further south, out along the beach to Dunwich Heath , where the coastguard cottages have been turned into a National Trust information centre (April-Oct daily; rest of year Wed-Sun) with displays on the heath and local wildlife. The heath is itself next to the Minsmere RSPB Nature Reserve , whose star turn is a colony of avocets. You can rent binoculars from the RSPB visitor centre (for times, call 01728/648281) and strike out on the trails to the birdwatching hides; there's a cafe on site, too. The coastline and its heaths have an eerie quality that is best appreciated by staying at Dunwich's one and only pub, the Ship Inn (tel 01728/648219; GBP50-60). With its low wooden beams and open fire, the bar here is a great place for a drink and the food is both moderately priced and very tasty with seafood the main event.
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