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Great Gable and Scafell stand as a formidable last-gasp boundary between the mountains of the central lakes and the gentler land to the southwest, which smooths out its wrinkles as it descends to the Cumbrian coast. Wast Water , which points its slender finger towards the pass between both ranges, remains one of the most isolated of the region's lakes. Public transport is very limited, which makes it one to savour if you fancy getting right off the beaten track. The highest slopes in England frame the northern shores, while on the wild southeastern banks rise the impassable screes which separate the lake from Eskdale to the south. The only road winds from the main coastal A595, through remote settlements, before meeting the lake at its southwestern tip, at the Wasdale Hall youth hostel (tel 019467/26222, ). The minor road then hugs the shore of the lake, ending four miles away at Wasdale Head , a clearing between the mountain ranges, where you'll find the marvellous Wasdale Head Inn (tel 019467/26229, ; GBP70-90), one of the most celebrated of all lakeland inns, with legendary breakfasts and hearty four-course dinners. Nearby, there's the National Trust's Wasdale Head campsite (tel 019467/26220; closed Nov-March). Eskdale is accessed either by the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway, which drops you right in the heart of superb walking country around the hamlet of Boot; or by the east-west minor road route between the coast, via Eskdale Green, and Little Langdale, just west of Skelwith Bridge. The attractive rural ride by road or train through the valley from the west begins to peter out as you approach Dalegarth station (terminus of the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway), just beyond which nestles the dead-end hamlet of BOOT . Three miles beyond Boot and 800-feet up, the remains of granaries, bath houses and the commandant's quarters for Hardknott Roman Fort command a strategic and panoramic position. Boot has a fair smattering of accommodation and services . The nearest place to Dalegarth station is Brook House Inn (tel 019467/23288, ; GBP50-60). In Boot itself, the Burnmoor Inn (tel 019467/23224, ; GBP50-60) is the traditional hikers' choice. Further up the road past the hamlet it's 500 yards to Hollins Farm campsite (tel 019467/23253) and another three-quarters of a mile to the Woolpack Inn (tel 019467/23230), which as well as rooms (GBP50-60) has a purpose-built bunkhouse (under GBP40). Another 400 yards beyond the pub you'll find Eskdale youth hostel (tel 019467/23219, ).
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