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Wordsworth declared Ullswater "the happiest combination of beauty and grandeur, which any of the Lakes affords", a judgement that still holds good. At over seven miles long, Ullswater is the second longest lake in Cumbria and much of its appeal derives from its serpentine shape, a result of the complex geology of this area: the glacier that formed the trench in which the lake now lies had to cut across a couple of geological boundaries, from granite in the south, through a band of Skiddaw slate, to softer sandstone and limestone in the north. The only public transport to Ullswater is the #108 bus service (May-Oct) from Penrith, which runs via Pooley Bridge, Gowbarrow and Glenridding to Patterdale. On summer weekends, three daily buses continue south over the Kirkstone Pass to Bowness. The chief lakeside settlements, PATTERDALE and GLENRIDDING , are less than a mile apart at the southern tip of Ullswater, each with a smattering of cafes and B&Bs. In Glenridding you'll find a few modest places to stay, such as the Fairlight Guest House (tel 017684/82397; GBP40-50), by Glenridding's main car park; or Moss Crag Guest House (tel 017684/82500; GBP40-50; closed Dec), across the beck near the shops, which has its own tearooms. Gillside Caravan & Camping (tel 017684/82346, ; closed Nov-Feb) is half a mile away up the valley, behind the tourist office (Easter-Oct daily 9am-6pm; Nov-Easter Fri-Sun 9.30am-3.30pm; tel 017684/82414) in the main car park. Climbers wanting an early start on Helvellyn stay at the Helvellyn Youth Hostel (tel 017684/82269, ), a mile and a half up the valley track from Glenridding. In Patterdale, the cheapest bed is at the rustic youth hostel (tel 017684/82394, ), just south of the hamlet on the A592. Patterdale's only pub , the White Lion (tel 017684/82214; GBP50-60), has a few rooms available and serves bar meals. Side Farm (tel 017684/82337), in the centre (the entrance is across from the church), is open all year for camping .
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