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Once a thriving market town on the main north-south trading route, PENRITH today suffers from undue comparisons with the improbably pretty settlements of the nearby Lakes. The brisk streets, filled with no-nonsense shops and shoppers, have more in common with the towns of the North Pennines than the stone villages of south Cumbria, and even the local building materials emphasize the geographic shift. Its deep-red buildings were erected from the same rust-red sandstone used to construct Penrith Castle (daily: June-Sept 8am-9pm; Oct-May 8am-4.30pm; free) in the fourteenth century, as a bastion against raids from the north; it's now a crumbling ruin, opposite the train station. Penrith station is five minutes' walk south of the town centre. The bus station is on Albert Street, behind Middlegate, and has regular services to Patterdale, Keswick, Cockermouth, Carlisle and Alston. The tourist office on Middlegate (Easter-April, Sept & Oct Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm, Sun 1-4.45pm; May-Aug Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm, Sun 1-5.45pm; Nov-March Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm; tel 01768/867466, ) can help you find accommodation . The bulk of the B&Bs line Victoria Road, the continuation of King Street running south from Market Square: Victoria Guest House , at no. 3 (tel 01768/863823, ; no credit cards; GBP40-50), and Blue Swallow , at no. 11 (tel 01768/866335, ; no credit cards; under GBP40), are the two most convenient choices. The George Hotel , on Devonshire Street by Market Square (tel 01768/862696, ; GBP60-70), is a central old coaching inn with cosy wood-panelled lounges. For food , J. & J. Graham's deli-grocery in Market Square can't be beaten. Otherwise, there's tapas at Costa's , 9 Queen St, or elegant dining at Passepartout , 51 Castlegate (tel 01768/865852; eve only; closed Mon).
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