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Three miles west of Ambleside along the A593, Skelwith Bridge marks the start of Great Langdale , a U-shaped glacial valley overlooked by the prominent rocky summits of the Langdale Pikes , the most popular of the central Lakeland fells. The #516 Langdale Rambler bus from Ambleside's Kelsick Road runs to Skelwith Bridge, Elterwater and the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel at the head of the valley between April and October. ELTERWATER village lies half a mile northwest of its namesake water, fringed by sheep-filled commonland and centred on a tiny green. It sees its fair share of Langdale-bound hikers, not least because of its two local youth hostels : Elterwater Langdale, just across the bridge from the village (tel 015394/37245, ); and Langdale High Close , a mile from Elterwater (bookings through Ambleside YHA: tel 015394/32304, ), with a more spectacular setting, high on the road over Red Bank from Skelwith Bridge to Grasmere. There's traditional hospitality at the Britannia Inn (tel 015394/37210, ; GBP60-70), a solid old lakeland pub on the green. The riverside Cumbria Way footpath runs as far as the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel , three miles from Elterwater. A path indicated by the "Stickle Ghyll" sign follows the beck straight up to Stickle Tarn , around to the right then left up to Pavey Ark (2297ft). It is fairly easy from then on to Harrison Stickle (2414ft), down to the stream forming the headwaters of Dungeon Ghyll and slowly up to Pike of Stickle (2326ft). Backtracking a short distance, a path leads to the right almost parallel with Dungeon Ghyll, back to the start (4 miles; 2400ft ascent; 4hr). The traditional accommodation in the valley is the peerless Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel (tel 015394/37272, ; GBP70-90, GBP90-110 with dinner), at the end of the B5343, seven miles northeast of Ambleside; it offers great three-course dinners in its restaurant (book in advance) and has a stone-flagged hikers' bar serving filling food. In the evening, the bar fills up with refugees from the nearby Great Langdale campsite (tel 015394/37668). A mile or so back down the road, rooms at the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel (tel 015394/37213, ; GBP70-90, GBP110-150 with dinner) feature dramatic fell views. You can also eat here, or at the adjacent Sticklebarn Tavern (tel 015394/37356; under GBP40), which has bunk-barn accommodation.
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