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Keswick





Standing on the shores of Derwent Water at the junction of the main north-south and east-west routes through the Lake District, KESWICK makes a good base for exploring delightful Borrowdale - the start of many walking routes to the central peaks around Scafell Pike - or Skiddaw and Blencathra, which loom over the town. For those not up to a day on the fells, the town remains a popular place throughout the year, with a big enough population (around five thousand) to warrant a bevy of local museums and sights.

Granted its market charter by Edward I in 1276 - market day is Saturday - Keswick was an important wool and leather centre until around 1500, when these trades were supplanted by the discovery of local graphite. The Cumberland Pencil Museum , west of the centre at Greta Bridge, on Main Street (daily 9.30am-4pm; GBP2.50; ), tells the whole story entertainingly. On the edge of Fitz Park, on Station Road, you'll find the Keswick Museum and Art Gallery (Easter-Oct daily 10am-4pm; GBP1), a quirky Victorian collection of ancient dental tools, fossils and some prized manuscripts and letters written by the Lakeland Poets. Make time, too, for a couple of churches: St John's , on St John Street in the centre, where the novelist Sir Hugh Walpole (of Herries novels fame) is buried; and Crosthwaite Church , a fifteen-minute walk northwest of town, over Greta Bridge, resting place of the poet Robert Southey.

Keswick's most celebrated landmark, Castlerigg Stone Circle , is made especially resonant by its magnificent mountain backdrop. From the end of Station Road, take the Threlkeld rail line path (signposted by the Keswick Country House Hotel ) and follow the signs. Thirty-eight hunks of Borrowdale volcanic stone, the largest almost eight feet tall, form a circle a hundred feet in diameter; another ten blocks delineating a rectangular enclosure within. Back on the rail path, you can easily continue all the way to Threlkeld itself, three miles from town, on a delightful riverside walk with the promise of a drink in one of Threlkeld's old pubs at the end. Keener hikers use Threlkeld as the starting point for the gut-busting climb up Blencathra , whose five great ridges loom above the A66: you'll need to be well prepared to tackle this.

On any reasonably decent day, the best move in Keswick is down to the shores of Derwent Water , five minutes' walk south of the centre along Lake Road and through the

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pedestrian underpass. It's among the most attractive of the lakes, ringed by crags and studded with islets, and is most easily seen by hopping on the Keswick Launch (Easter-Nov daily 10am-6pm, until 8pm in July & Aug; Dec-Easter Sat & Sun 10am-6pm; GBP5 round-trip, 80p per stage; tel 017687/72263, ), which runs right around the lake calling at several points en route. There's also an enjoyable one-hour evening cruise (GBP5.80) from May Day bank holiday until mid-September.


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9/5/2008 8:57:31 AM

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