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Greystone HAWKSHEAD , between Coniston and Ambleside, wears its beauty well, its patchwork of cottages and cobbles backed by woods and fells and barely affected by twentieth-century intrusions. This is partly due to the enlightened policy of banning traffic in the centre - huge car parks at the village edge take the strain and when the crowds of day-trippers leave, Hawkshead regains its natural tranquillity. The village was an important wool market at the time Wordsworth was studying at Hawkshead Grammar School (Easter-Oct Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm, Sun 1-5pm; GBP2), founded in 1585, whose entrance lies opposite the tourist office - pride of place is given to the desk on which William carved his signature. While there he attended the fifteenth-century Church of St Michael (daily 9am-6pm) above the school, which harks back to Norman designs in its rounded pillars and patterned arches. From its knoll the churchyard gives a good view over the village's twin central squares, and of Main Street, housing the Beatrix Potter Gallery (Easter-Oct Mon-Thurs & Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; GBP3; NT), occupying rooms once used by her solicitor husband. Fans get bustled into rooms full of Potter's original illustrations, though the less devoted might find displays on her life as keen naturalist, conservationist and early supporter of the National Trust more diverting. The main bus service to Hawkshead is the #505/506 between Bowness, Ambleside and Coniston; on reaching Hawkshead it loops down to Hill Top and back for the Beatrix Potter house at Near Sawrey. The tourist office is at the main car park (Easter-Oct daily 9.30am-6pm; Nov-Easter Fri, Sat & Sun 10am-3.30pm; tel 015394/36525). Some contend that Wordsworth briefly boarded at what is now Ann Tyson's Cottage , on cobbled Wordsworth Street (tel 015394/36405, ; GBP40-50). The whitewashed Old School House (tel 015394/36403; GBP40-50) is another historic choice, just behind the Grammar School. The youth hostel , Esthwaite Lodge (tel 015394/36293, ), is a mile to the south down the Newby Bridge road, while camping is at Hawkshead's busy Croft Caravan and Campsite (tel 015394/36374, ; closed Nov to mid-March), on North Lonsdale Road, right by the village. Pubs provide the main eating options, not bad at either the Queen's Head on Main Street (tel 015394/36271, ; GBP60-70) or the King's Arms , on the main square (tel 015394/36372, ; GBP60-70), both of which have bar meals as well as a more formal restaurant. Of the tearooms , the fifteenth-century Minstrels' Gallery on the main square has an espresso machine - ask here, too, about renting cottages in the area.
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