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The journey to WINCHCOMBE , twelve miles southwest of Chipping Campden, is stunning, whether you take the dramatic descent over the escarpment or the exhilarating ride down the B4632, which weaves along the lower folds of the cliff. Under the Saxons, Winchcombe became the provincial capital of the kingdom of Mercia , and it was the most important town in the Cotswolds until the early Middle Ages. The Saxon abbey didn't survive the Dissolution, and the town's main place of worship is the rather plain fifteenth-century church, most notable for its gargoyles. Apart from that, Winchcombe has an attractive blend of stone and half-timbered buildings and a museum, but the real attractions are Sudeley Castle, Belas Knap and Hailes Abbey , all located just outside the town. These, together with some of the finest scenery in the region and Tewkesbury only a short hop away, make Winchcombe a quieter place to base yourself than Cheltenham, and an appealing alternative to the more touristy towns and villages in the Cotswolds. Bus #606 runs more or less hourly from Cheltenham to Winchcombe (less frequent on Sun) bound for Broadway. Winchcombe's tourist office (April-Oct Mon-Sat 10am-1pm & 2-5pm, Sun 10am-1pm & 1.30-4pm; Nov-March Sat & Sun 10am-1pm & 1.30-4pm; tel 01242/602925, ) in the Town Hall is right next to the small Police and Folk Museum (April-Oct 10am-5pm; 80p), which has examples of 1829-Peeler, Japanese and Nazi uniforms on display. Of the many B&Bs hereabouts, among the best are the Jacobean Great House on Castle Street (tel 01242/602490; GBP40-50), full of old family furniture; the more modern Gower House at 16 North St (tel 01242/602616; GBP40-50), and the inexpensive Clevely , three miles out of the village on Corndean Lane (tel 01242/602059; GBP40-50). There's little to choose between the town's two main pubs , the White Hart and the Plaisterers Arms , which are both on the main street and serve food, though the latter always has Scandinavian fare on offer.
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