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Just under an hour south by train from Esbjerg, the exquisitely preserved town of RIBE was once a major stopover point for pilgrims on their way to Rome, as well as a significant port, until thwarted by the Reformation and the sanding-up of the harbour. Since then, not much appears to have changed. The surrounding marshlands, which have prevented the development of any large-scale industry, and a long-standing preservation programme, have enabled Ribe to keep the appearance and size of medieval times, making it a delight to wander in. From Ribe's train station, Dagmarsgade leads to Torvet and the towering Domkirke (April & Oct Mon-Sat 11am-4pm, Sun noon-4pm; May-June & mid-Aug to Sept Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun noon-5pm; July to mid-Aug Mon-Sat 10am-5.30pm, Sun noon-5.30pm; Nov-March Mon-Sat 11am-3pm, Sun noon-3pm; 12kr; 1-hour tours from July to mid-Aug at 11.30am; 45kr), begun around 1150. Only the "Cat's Head Door" on the south side remains from the original construction and the church's interior is not as spectacular as either its size or long history might suggest, though you can normally climb the red-brick tower and peer out over the town. Behind the cathedral, the Weis' Stue is a tiny inn built around 1600, from which the nightwatchman of Ribe makes his rounds (May-Sept 10pm, June-Aug 8pm & 10pm) - a throwback to the days when Danish towns were patrolled by guards looking for unattended candles, though these days he stops at points of interest to explain the town's history to tourists. It's free and can be fun. The Viking Museum (July & Aug Wed 10am-6pm, Thurs-Tues 10am-4pm; rest of the year daily 10am-4pm, Nov-March closed Mon; 50kr), nearby on Odins Plads, offers an informative display on Ribe's past, including archeological finds and interactive computer exhibits. If you haven't had enough of Vikings, you can watch their daily life in action at the Ribe Vikingecenter (July & Aug daily 11am-4.30pm; May, June & Sept Mon-Fri 11am-4pm; 50kr), 2km south of the town centre at Lustrupvej, where staff in Viking dress give pottery demonstrations and cook over open fires. The tourist office (April-June & Sept-Oct Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 10am-1pm; July-Aug Mon-Fri 9.30am-5.30pm, Sat 9am-5pm; Nov-March Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm, Sat 10am-1pm; tel 75.42.15.00, www.ribetourist.dk ) is behind the cathedral, opposite the Weis' Stue; it has a full list of private homes with rooms to rent. There's also a youth hostel (tel 75.42.06.20, www.danhostel.dk/ribe ; GBP5-10/$8-16/?9-18; Feb-Nov), on the opposite side of the river from Skibbroen: cross the river bridge and turn left into Sct. Peders Gade. Failing that, there are several moderately priced places such as the Weis' Stue (tel 75.42.07.00; GBP20-25/$32-40/?36-45), which is opposite the atmospheric but expensive Hotel Dagmar (tel 75.42.00.33, www.hoteldagmar.dk ; GBP40/$64/?72 and over), the oldest hotel in Denmark. The nearest campsite , which also has cabins, is 1.5km from Ribe, along Farupvej (tel 75.41.07.77; bus #715; open Easter to late October). A daytime and evening alternative with food and excellent coffee is Valdemar Sejr next to the art gallery on Sct. Nicolaj Gade. For an evening drink try Stenbohus on Stenbogade, which attracts artists, students and musicians and has live blues, folk or rock bands at least once a week.
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