The City
Arhus divides into two clearly defined parts: the old section, close to the cathedral, a tight cluster of medieval streets, and, surrounding this, a less characterful modern sector. Søndergade is the city's main street, a pedestrianized strip that leads down into Bispetorvet and the old centre, the streets of which form a web around the Domkirke (May-Sept Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Oct-April Mon-Sat 10am-3pm), a massive if plain Gothic church, most of which dates from the fifteenth century, the original twelfth-century structure having been destroyed by fire. At the eastern end, the altarpiece is a grand triptych by the noted Bernt Notkes. Look also at the painted glass window behind the altar, the work of the Norwegian Emmanuel Vigeland (brother of Gustav). The area around the cathedral is a leisurely district of browsable shops and enticing cafes. On Clements Torv, across the road from the cathedral in the basement under Unibank, the Viking Museum (Mon-Wed & Fri 9.30am-4pm, Thurs 9.30am-6pm; free) displays Viking finds, including sections of the original ramparts and some Viking craftsmen's tools, alongside some informative accounts of early Arhus. Close by, at Domkirkeplads 5, the Women's Museum (June-Aug daily 10am-5pm; rest of the year Tues-Sun 10am-4pm; www.kvindemuseet.dk ; 25kr) stages temporary exhibitions on many aspects of women's lives and lifestyles past and present. West along Vestergade, the thirteenth-century Vor Frue Kirke (Mon-Fri 10am-2pm, Sat 10am-noon) is actually the site of three churches, most notable of which is the atmospheric eleventh-century crypt church, discovered beneath several centuries-worth of rubbish during restoration work on the main church in the 1950s. Look in, also, at the main church, for Claus Berg's detailed altarpiece, and, through the cloister remaining from the pre-Reformation monastery, now an old folks' home, for the medieval frescoes inside the third church, which depict local working people rather than biblical scenes. If you've visited the tourist office, you've already been inside the least interesting section of one of the modern city's major sights, the Arhus Radhus , a controversial structure built in the 1940s. You're free to walk in and look for yourself, but it's best to take a guided tour (10kr) conducted in English at 11am on weekdays during the summer. Above the entrance hangs Hagedorn Olsen's huge mural, A Human Society , symbolically depicting the city emerging from World War II. Perhaps most interesting are the walls of the small civic room; Albert Naur, who designed them during the Nazi occupation, concealed various Allied insignia in their intricate floral patterns. Finally, a lift (late June to early Sept noon & 2pm; 5kr, included in the tour) climbs to the bell tower and a view over the city and across the bay. It's a short walk from here to the city's best-known attraction, Den Gamle By , on Viborgvej (daily: Jan 11am-3pm; Feb-March & Nov-Dec 10am-4pm; April-May & Sept-Oct 10am-5pm; June-Aug 9am-6pm; www.dengamleby.dk ; 60kr), an open-air museum of traditional Danish life, with sixty-odd half-timbered houses from all over the country, dismantled and moved here piece by piece. Many of the craftsmen's buildings are used for their original purpose, the overall aim of the place being to give an impression of an old Danish market town, something it does very effectively. Fans of Danish art may well prefer to visit the Arhus Art Museum (Tues-Sun 10am-5pm, Wed until 8pm; www.aarhuskunstmuseum.dk ; 40kr) in Vennelystparken, a little way north, with works from the late eighteenth century to the modern day, including the radiant canvases of Asger Jorn and Richard Mortensen, and Bjørn Nørgaard's sculptured version of Christian IV's tomb: the original, in Roskilde Cathedral, is stacked with riches; this one features a coffee cup, an egg and a ballpoint pen.
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