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A thirty-minute bus ride (#890) northeast from Odense takes you to KERTEMINDE , a sailing and holiday centre that has a prettily preserved nucleus of shops and houses around its fifteenth-century Skt. Laurentius Kirke. Across the road from the bus station on Magrethes Plads 1, Fjord & Baeltcentret (July to mid-Aug daily 10am-6pm, mid-Feb to June & mid-Aug to Nov Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat & Sun 10am-5pm; www.fjord-baelt.dk ; 65kr) is a state-of-the-art aquarium with a 50m long underwater tunnel from where you can watch and learn about the sea's environment. On Strandgade, the Town Museum - Farvergarden (Tues-Sun 10am-4pm; 15kr) has five reconstructed craft workshops and a collection of local fishing equipment. Kerteminde was home to the "birdman of Funen", the late-nineteenth-century ornithological painter Johannes Larsen and a fairly lengthy stroll around the marina and along Møllebakken brings you to the Johannes Larsen Museum (June-Aug daily 10am-5pm; Sept-Oct & March-May Tues-Sun 10am-4pm; Nov-Feb Tues-Sun 11am-4pm; 40kr) - the painter's house, kept as it was when he lived there, with his furnishings, knick-knacks, canvases and, in the dining room, his astonishing wall-paintings. Kerteminde's tourist office on Strandgade is opposite the Skt. Laurentius Kirke, across a small alleyway (mid-June to Aug Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, rest of year Mon-Fri 9am-4pm, Sat 9.30am-12.30pm; tel 65.32.11.21, www.kerteminde-turist.dk ). The only low-cost accommodation option is the youth hostel at Skovvej 46 (tel 65.32.39.29, www.danhostel.dk/kerteminde ; GBP5-10/$8-16/?9-18), a twenty-minute walk from the centre (cross the Kerteminde Fjord by the road bridge and take the first major road left and immediately right). There's also a campsite (tel 65.32.19.71; mid-April to mid-Sept) with cabins, at Hindsholmvej 80, not far from the Larsen Museum, on the main road along the seafront - a thirty-minute walk from the centre. About 4km from Kerteminde, along the banks of the fjord at Vikingvej 123, is the Ladby Boat (March-May & Sept-Oct Tues-Sun 10am-4pm; June-Aug daily 10am-5pm; Nov-Feb Wed-Sun 11am-3pm; 25kr), a vessel dredged up from the fjord and found to be the burial place of a Viking chieftain. The craft, along with the weapons, hunting dogs and horses which accompanied the deceased on his journey to Valhalla, is kept in a small purpose-built museum, and is well worth the trip out. The infrequent bus #482 stops here and motorboats make the run out in summer, although it's a pleasant enough walk or cycle.
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