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Ishøj S-Tog, and then bus #128 or a 25-minute walk. Tues-Sun 10am-5pm; 50kr; www.arken.dk . Situated 17km southwest of the city centre on a lonely, windswept beach near the rundown suburb of Ishøj is the controversial Arken museum of modern art. The obscure location seems almost wilfully perverse for a museum that aspires to be an internationally recognized showcase for the contemporary arts, but it's worth the trouble of getting there, and you'll also find a decent beach right on the museum's doorstep.
Arken has a reasonable, nautical-themed restaurant with great views over the bay.
It was originally intended to build Arken ("The Ark") actually in the sea, though environmental concerns prevented this, and it was finally placed on the seafront instead. The building resembles a beached sailing ship - a striking sight when seen from across the dunes, with its large, white, angled expanses and steel wings. The interior, formed by an intersecting hall and a narrower corridor, is slightly bewildering, and the unusual character of the building and its location can tend to overwhelm the exhibits themselves. The museum is used for temporary exhibitions devoted to contemporary art; it's intended to expand the permanent collection too, though the museum's only acquisitions on permanent display at present are the massive Asger Jorn abstracts by the ticket desk. Check out the steel-and-marble toilets in the basement - a work of art in themselves.
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