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Atlas Bar Larsbjørnstraede 18 tel 33 15 03 52. Bus #14 or #16. Mon-Fri 11am-10pm, Sat noon-10pm. Moderate. On trendy Larsbjørnstraede in the basement underneath Flyvefisken restaurant, the Atlas Bar was originally a vegetarian restaurant which now also features non-vegetarian dishes (around 100kr) of an international - and usually spicy - nature, like Mexican chilli or Bali chicken. Portions are large and the menu is chalked up on a bar column - one side meat, the other fish and vegetarian. Always packed at lunchtime, when it's a good idea to book in advance.

Bankerat Ahlefeldtsgade 29. Bus #40. Mon-Fri 9.30am-midnight, Sat & Sun 10.30am-midnight. Inexpensive. On the corner of Nansensgade, cosy Bankerat is renowned for its affordable, quality dishes - mostly Asian, Italian and Mexican - and its free movie screenings on Sunday evenings in winter.

Cafe & Olhalle "1892" Rømersgade 22 tel 33 93 25 75. Nørreport Station. Daily 11.30am-4pm, Nov-June closed Mon. Moderate. In the basement of the Workers' Museum, the 1892 is the only restaurant in Copenhagen in a listed building, complete with 1930s decor and unique glass ceiling. Specializing in food from the period, such as traditional Danish bidesild (strongly flavoured pickled herring) washed down with schnapps. Lunchtime is always very busy - book in advance.

Dan Turell Store Regnegade 3. Bus #31, #42 or #43. Mon-Wed 10am-midnight, Thurs 10am-2am, Fri & Sat 10am-4am, Sun 11am-midnight. Moderate. French-style cafe off Gothersgade devoted to the memory of popular Danish author Dan Turell. French and English breakfasts, sandwiches and wok meals are all good, while the Dan Turell burger (beef or chicken; 90kr) is big and tasty, and comes with heaps of salad.

Davids Sølvgade 91 tel 33 13 80 56. Bus #10. Tues-Fri 6pm-8.30pm. Inexpensive. Selling a single, set takeaway meal (changes daily), Davids is probably the best place in town to get a carry out (there's no in-house seating). The food is a delightful blend of Mediterranean and Danish influences, such as scallops in a creamy sauce with pesto and cous-cous, and its proximity to various parks means there's no shortage of places to eat. The price (60kr) includes a loaf of freshly baked bread. Call ahead, as meals are made individually and take thirty minutes to prepare.

Eastern Corner Sølvgade 85A. tel 33 11 58 35. Bus #10. Mon-Thurs & Sun 5pm-11pm, Fri & Sat 5pm-midnight. Moderate. Affordable and reasonable Thai restaurant. The red and green curries are tasty and well-spiced, and there's a small bar-cafe attached if you fancy an after-dinner coffee and cake.

L'Education Nationale Larsbjørnsstraede 12 tel 33 91 53 60. Bus #14 or #16. Mon-Sat 11.30am-midnight, Sun 4pm-midnight. Moderate. Paris in Copenhagen: everything in this cafe comes from France - even the butter on the table - and the tipple of choice is French wine by the glass rather than the usual Danish beer. The food is well-made French country cooking in large portions; 110kr for the meal of the day.

Etcetera Hovedvagtsgade 8 tel 33 33 99 97. Bus #1, #6 or #9. Tues & Wed 4pm-midnight, Thurs 4pm-1am, Fri 4pm-3am, Sat 6pm-3am. Expensive. In a small street just off the west side of Kongens Nytorv, ultra-hip Etcetera is full of model types and men in polo-neck jumpers sampling reasonable Tunisian/North African-inspired food. The seating on deep sofas is comfortable, though getting to your food on the table can prove a bit of a pain.

Europa Amagertorv 1. Bus #1, #6 or #29. Mon-Wed 9am-midnight, Thurs-Sat 9am-1am, Sun 10am-midnight. Moderate. Overlooking Amagertorv and the Storkespringvand Fountain, the traditional, glass-fronted Cafe Europa is a welcome halfway point down Strøget for a cup of coffee, a superior slice of cake or a snack or light meal. Outdoor service is very efficient, so if you're in a hurry, this is the place to go.

Flyvefisken Larsbjørnsstraede 18 tel 33 14 95 15. Bus #14 or #16. Mon-Sat 5.30pm-midnight. Moderate. In the same building as the Atlas Bar , on the corner of Studiestraedet and with a good view of goings-on in trendy Larsbjørnstraede, Flyvefisken offers up to 100 excellent Thai dishes (around 100kr each) - try the excellent deli or deluxe menus (148kr and 210kr respectively).

Den Grønne Kaelder Pilestraede 48 tel 33 93 01 40. Bus #31, #42 or #43. Mon-Sat 11am-10pm. Moderate. Cosy vegetarian place with a large selection of scrumptious dishes from a lunchtime buffet and an a la carte menu in the evening - try the beetroot roesti and garlic-roasted leeks. Also serves organic wines and homemade bread.

Huset Med Det Grønne Trae Gammeltorv 20 tel 33 12 87 86. Bus #5. April-Aug Mon-Fri 11am-3pm; Sept-March Mon-Sat 11am-3pm. Expensive. Frequented mostly by lawyers and solicitors from the nearby law courts, the "House with the Green Tree" offers some of the finer Danish lunches in the downtown area. The spread of smørrebrod leaves little to be desired; neither do the fourteen different types of schnapps.

Ida Davidsen Store Kongensgade 70 tel 33 91 36 55. Bus #1, #6, #9, #10, #29 or #650S. Mon-Fri 10am-4pm. Moderate. Situated in an atmospheric cellar, this is one of the best places in town to sample the traditional Danish smørrebrød , with toppings including smoked salmon, herring and roast beef with powerful horseradish, all topped with a raw egg yolk, if you like. Look out for members of the Danish royal family: they live just around the corner and often pop in for a quick bite.

Klaptraeet Kultorvet 13. Nørreport Station. Mon-Wed 10am-1am, Thurs 10am-3am, Fri & Sat 10am-5am, Sun 1pm-midnight. Inexpensive. Frequented during the week by backgammon-playing locals and exhausted shoppers, Klaptraeet transforms during weekends to a busy hangout for the local high-school kids. Breakfasts are cheap and there are good-value light meals - quiche, pizza and suchlike - throughout the day. The enormous sandwiches - smoked turkey, brie, and roast beef (all 41kr) - are worth a try.

Klimt Frederiksborggade 29 tel 33 11 76 70. Bus #5 or #16. Mon-Wed 10am-midnight, Thurs-Sat 10am-2am, Sun 10am-11pm. Moderate. A small and cosy place on the busy thoroughfare from Indre By to Nørrebro, Klimt serves scrumptious fusion cuisine, focusing on high-quality fresh produce, at affordable prices (main courses 50-100kr), plus a large selection of choice teas, coffees, fruit juices and cognacs.

Konditoriet Amagertorv 6. Bus #1, #6 or #29. Mon-Thurs 11am-5pm, Fri 11am-6pm, Sat 10am-4pm. Inexpensive. Inside the Royal Copenhagen Porcelain shop, Konditoriet is the place for a genteel cup of coffee or cocoa, or a Danish pastry or finger sandwich served up on the shop's own beautiful porcelain and silverware.

Kong Hans Vingardsstraede 6 tel 33 11 68 68. Bus #1 or #6. Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. Very expensive. One of Denmark's best restaurants, this classic French restaurant, boasting a Michelin star, is housed in a historic fifteenth-century vaulted basement that was once King Hans's wine cellar. The French menu with an Asiatic twist couldn't be more enticing, but reckon on around 600kr for a five-course meal.

Konrad Pilestraede 12 tel 33 93 29 29. Bus #31, #42 or #43. Mon-Wed noon-1am, Thurs noon-2am, Fri & Sat noon-4am. Expensive. Serving fantastic Scandinavian food in an ultra-chic setting, Konrad pulls in the power-lunchers and business diners in their droves. Portions are small, prices are high and the service can be a little over fussy, but if you want to be seen this is one of the places to be - at least for the moment. Book ahead.

Krasnapolsky Vestergade 10. Bus #5. Mon-Wed 10am-2am, Thurs-Sat 10am-5am, Sun 2pm-midnight. Moderate. Spacious cafe off Strøget that caters for a broad range of customers, from suburban housewives on shopping sprees to hip techno freaks, with its almost round-the-clock service of chic, French-style cafe food. Brunch (40-75kr) is served until 2pm, or try the excellent Krasnapolsky burger.

Krogs Fiskerestaurant Gammel Strand 38 tel 33 15 89 15. Bus #29. Mon-Sat 11.30am-4pm & 5.30pm-midnight. Very expensive. One of the city's oldest, best and most expensive fish restaurants, located along the canalside where fisherwomen used to sell their catch. The classic interior, with high stucco ceilings, white tablecloths, golden mirrors, and eighteenth-century paintings, is kept as it was when the restaurant first opened in 1910. The delicious, five-course menu gastronomique costs 465kr; the equally mouthwatering traditional bouillabaisse with Danish fish and shellfish costs 200kr. Book in advance.

La Glace Skoubogade 20. Bus #5. Mon-Thurs 8am-5.30pm, Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 11am-5pm. Inexpensive. Time seems to have stood still here, with primly dressed waitresses ministering to a genteel clientele who come for the beautifully sculpted, cream-heavy layered cakes and real hot chocolate. It's just south of Vor Frue Kirke, on a tiny street between Strøget and Skindergade.

Norden Ostergade 61. Bus #1, #6 or #29. Mon-Sat 9am-midnight, Sun 10am-midnight. Moderate. On the corner of Købmagergade and Strøget, with a fine view of the hectic shoppers below from the first floor. The cafe-style food - soups, sandwiches, quiches and pasta dishes - is good value, considering the location, and the mouthwatering cakes are freshly made every day.

Nyhavns Faergekro Nyhavn 5 tel 33 15 15 88. Bus #1, #6, #9 or #10. Daily 11.30am-11.30pm. Expensive to very expensive. Located on the sunny side of Nyhavn, Faergekro - the "ferry inn" - serves unpretentious and tasty traditional food, either from the fish-laden lunchtime open buffet (80kr) or the a la carte restaurant upstairs. Choice dishes include the entrecote and pomme frites (155kr) and titbits from the vast dessert table.

Pasta Basta Valkendorfsgade 22 tel 33 11 21 31. Bus #5. Mon-Thurs & Sun 1.30pm-3am, Fri & Sat 11.30am-5am. Inexpensive. Open very late, and offering an array of fish and meat pasta plus a buffet of nine cold pasta dishes, this is a favourite final stop for all-night groovers, and extremely popular with young locals at all times.

Peder Oxe Grabrødretorv 11 tel 33 11 00 77. Bus #5. Daily 11.30am-12.30am. Expensive. Very popular French-inspired steakhouse on the small Grabrødretorv square, busy both at lunch and dinner. The main attraction is the salad buffet (109kr), including a juicy organic Oxeburger, made of finest beef. The only drawback is the lack of space - it can be a tight squeeze, and intimate conversation is impossible.

Sommersko Kronprinsensgade 6. Bus #31, #42 or #43. Mon-Thurs 8am-midnight, Fri 8am-2am, Sat 9am-2am, Sun 10am-midnight. Moderate. Busy, Parisian-style cafe off Købmagergade serving simple and filling food, like delicious pasta with wild mushrooms, daily until 11pm. Popular meeting spot for Sunday brunch (62-79kr).

Sporvejen Grabrødretorv 17. Bus #5. Daily 11am-midnight. Cheap. Housed in the last of Copenhagen's old trams - the rest are now in Egypt - parked up on Grabrødretorv, inside which you can sample some of the city's best burgers (omelettes for vegetarians) served up with egg and chips. There are blankets available to keep you warm if you want to sit outside on a chilly summer's night.

Sticks 'n' Sushi Nansensgade 59 tel 33 11 14 07. Bus #5 or #16. Mon-Sat 6-11pm, Sun 6-10pm. Moderate. This classy sushi bar is among the city's favourite Japanese eateries. The menu changes according to the fresh fish of the season (try the yakitori sticks) and there are six different set menus (170-200kr). There's a second, takeaway, branch (open until 9pm) further down Nansengade.

Thorvaldsen Gourmetbar & Cafe Gammel Strand 34 tel 33 32 04 00. Bus #29. Mon-Thurs 10am-midnight, Fri & Sat 10am-2am, Sun 11am-11pm. Moderate. Popular canalside cafe, serving a strange combination of Danish and Spanish food that somehow works well - try some spicy Danish herring with Spanish salad. There's a great view of the colourful frescoes of the Thorvaldsen's Museum from the seats outside, which get packed during summer.

Traktørstet pa Rosenborg Oster Voldgade 44 tel 33 15 76 20. Bus #184 or #150S. Daily 11am-3pm, closed Mon Oct-April. Moderate. Just by the gatehouse of Rosenborg Slott and open only for lunches and early afternoon cake and coffee, Traktørstet focuses on traditional Danish fare - the smørrebrod and herring are exceptional. It's often crowded with tourists visiting the palace and it can be hard to find a seat - book a table or, on a warm day, sit outside on the lawn.

Tyvenkokkenhans-koneoghendeselsker Magstraede 16 tel 33 16 12 92. Bus

© 2003 by Rough Guides Ltd. as trustee for its Authors. Published by Rough Guides. All rights reserved. Rough Guides name is a trademark of Rough Guides Ltd. Buy the book here! The Rough Guide to Denmark

#5. Tues-Sat 6pm-1am. Very expensive. Named after the Peter Greenaway film The Cook, the Thief, his Wife and her Lover , this cosy and charming restaurant (on a small street running east off Radhusstraede near the Use It office) offers a fantastic selection of set menus (from 350kr), ranging from four to twelve courses and featuring traditional Scandinavian fare with a modern twist. Individual a la carte dishes are also available, along with a great wine list, and service is excellent.


Ir., MSc.

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1/9/2009 10:22:46 AM