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Thanks to the Danish national team's success over the past decade - they were European champions in 1992 and World Cup quarter-finalists in 1998 - and the number of players who have forged successful careers at Europe's largest clubs - Peter Schmeichel at Manchester United, Brian and Michael Laudrup at AC Milan and Barcelona - football has become the country's most popular sport. Having said that, the domestic game in Denmark is fairly low-key compared to the big European leagues: there were no professional clubs in the country until as recently as 1985, and though there's plenty of football played in the Copenhagen area, you shouldn't expect big crowds or high-quality games unless you're going to a match involving the national side or the local derby between the city's two biggest teams, Brøndby and FC København (usually known as FCK). Matches are played on Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays and the season lasts roughly from late July to June, with a winter break from December to February. Tickets for Brøndby, FCK and national team games are available through Billetnet or at the respective stadiums. Danish football fans are noted for their relaxed behaviour, and the laid-back atmosphere is enhanced by the availability of beer inside the stadium, as well as surprisingly good hotdogs.

Founded in 1991, FCK is the country's richest club - they recently acquired ex-Inter Milan coach Roy Hodgson as manager and aspire to break into big-time European football, though they've struggled in recent years even to hold their own in the Danish premier division. Games are well attended, with an average gate of about 14,000, though they can't create much atmosphere in the vast 40,000-capacity Parken stadium (tickets from 100kr; bus #1, #6 or #14). If you want a more intimate atmosphere, try next door at Osterbro Stadium, where B93 - a team in Denmark's semi-professional second-division - play; tickets (80kr) are available on the gate.

FCK's main rivals are Brøndby , from the working-class suburbs to the south of the city. Founded in 1964, they became the country's first professional football club when

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they turned pro in 1985. Brøndby are presently Denmark's most successful club in recent years, winning the league eight times in the fifteen years since they turned pro, and having several successful campaigns in European football, including reaching the semi-finals of the Uefa Cup. Brøndby's smaller stadium has atmosphere, but crowds have dwindled, though numbers still rival FCK - a team they consider overpaid prima donnas. Tickets cost from 80kr; take the S-Tog to Glostrup and then bus #131.


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1/9/2009 9:31:52 AM