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For Czechs, the days of starting at 5am with a cup of Turkish coffee are disappearing - these days they're as likely to breakfast on cereal as salami and rolls. Popular snacks include bramborak , a potato pancake with flecks of bacon, parek , a frankfurter dipped in mustard or ketchup and shoved in a white roll, and smazeny syr - a slab of melted Edam fried in breadcrumbs and served in a roll ( v housce ) with tartar sauce.

Coffee ( kava ) is drunk thick and black and described rather hopefully as "Turkish" or turecka . However nowadays filter coffee, latte and espresso are common on the tourist track. The cake shop ( cukrarna ) is an important part of the country's social life, particularly on Sundays when it's often the only place that's open, although the cakes aren't up to Austrian standards.

In and outside of Prague, eating out is inexpensive; restaurants ( restaurace ) always display their menus and prices outside. They serve hot meals nonstop from about 11am until 11pm (10pm outside Prague). Most pubs ( pivnice ) also serve basic hot dishes, as do wine cellars ( vinarna ) - often the most stylish places around.

Most lunchtime menus start with soup ( polevka ), one of the country's culinary strong points. Main courses are overwhelmingly based on pork or beef, but one treat is carp ( kapr ), traditional at Christmas and cheaply and widely offered just about everywhere, along with trout ( pstruh ).

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Goose ( husa ), duck ( kachna ) and wild boar ( kanci maso ) dishes are also generally delicious. Main courses are served with different varieties of dumpling ( knedliky ) or vegetables , most commonly potatoes and sauerkraut. With the exception of palacinky (pancakes) filled with chocolate or fruit, cream, delicious fruit dumplings ( ovocne knedliky) and ice cream, desserts , where they exist at all, can be pretty uninspiring.


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12/5/2008 2:08:02 PM