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PLZEN (Pilsen) is Bohemia's second city, with a population of 170,000. Despite its industrial character, there are compensations - a large number of students, eclectic architecture (including the recently-restored Great Synagogue) and an unending supply of (probably) the best beer in the world. All of which make Plzen a popular stopoff on the main rail line between Prague and the west. Plzen's train stations are works of art in themselves: your likeliest point of arrival is the Hlavni nadrazi, just a little east of the city centre. The bus terminal is on the west side of town. From both stations, the city centre is only a short walk away. The main square, namesti Republiky , presents a full range of architectural styles, starting with the exalted heights of the Gothic cathedral of sv Bartolomej , its green spire (daily 10am-6pm) reaching up almost 103m. Over the way rises the sgraffitoed Renaissance Old Town Hall (Stara radnice), self-importantly one storey higher than the rest of the square. Here and there other old buildings survive, but the vast majority of Plzen's buildings hail from the city's heyday during the industrial expansion around the turn of the century. In the old town, this produced some wonderful variations on neohistorical themes and Art Nouveau motifs, particularly to the north and west of the main square. But the reason most people come to Plzen is to sample its famous 12° Plzensky Prazdroj, or Pilsner Urquell (its Germanized export name; www.pilsner-urquell.cz) . Beer has been brewed in the town since it was founded in 1295, but it wasn't until 1842 that the famous Burgerliches Brauhaus was built, after a near-riot by the townsfolk over the declining quality of their brew. The brewery is at U prazdroje 7; a guided tour (Mon-Fri 12.30pm; 1hr) leaves from the historical gate, but you'll have to pay extra for a tasting. You could, of course, just settle for a half-litre of the stuff at the vast Na stilce pub (daily from 11am), beyond the brewery's triumphal arch, or try out the smaller theme restaurant to the left. The truly dedicated can then head for the Brewery Museum (Pivovarske muzeum; daily 10am-6pm) at Veleslavinova 6. Finding a vacancy in one of Plzen's hotels presents few problems, though rooms don't come cheap. There are some reasonable rooms at the faded Slovan , Smetanovy sady 1 (tel 019/722 72 56; GBP5/$8/?9-GBP20/$32/?36), and better ones at the Continental , Zbrojnicka 8 (tel 019/723 52 92; GBP5-10/$8-16/?9-18), and a decent pension at Solni 8 (tel 019/723 6652; GBP5-10/$8-16/?9-18). Private rooms and other accommodation are available at the tourist office (daily 9/10am-3.30/5/6pm; tel 019/703 27 50, www.plzen-city.cz ), at nam. Republiky 41. Alternatively, you can stay at the hostel at Bolevecka 30 (tel 019/725 98 14; under GBP5/$8/?9; tram #4 north along Karlovarska). Bus #20 from the train station will drop you at the Bila hora campsite (April-Sept), at 28. pijna 55/59 (tel 019/53 49 05) in the northern suburb of the same name. All the hotels have restaurants attached but for cheap meals you might as well combine your eating with your drinking . Apart from Na stilce , you can get Pilsner Urquell (and cheap grub) at the wood-panelled U Salzmannu at Prazska 6. Gambrinus, Plzen's other main beer, is best at U Zumbery at Bezrucova 14 or you could try the garden restaurant at Zach's pub, Palackeho namesti.
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