Practicalities
Korcula's bus station is 400m southeast of the old town. Work your way round to the northwestern side of the peninsula to find the tourist office (June-Sept Mon-Sat 8am-9pm, Sun 8am-3pm; Oct-May Mon-Sat 8am-3pm; tel 021/715-701), although rooms are handled by Marko Polo (tel 020/715-400, marko-polo-tours@du.tel.hr ) between the bus station and the entrance to the old town. Cheapest of the hotels is the Badija , accessible by taxi boat from the harbour (tel 020/711-115; GBP10-15/$16-24/?18-27); a spartan but idyllically situated place in a former Franciscan monastery on the island of Badija. The Park is a package-tour-orientated place in a bay southeast of the centre (tel 020/726-004; GBP20-25/$32-40/?36-45); while the stately Korcula (tel 050/711-078; GBP25-30/$40-48/?45-54) is a grander affair on the harbourfront on the western side of the old town. The nearest campsite is Autocamp Kalac (tel 020/711-182), about 3km southeast of town and reached by hourly buses for Lumbarda. The Jadrolinija ferry office (tel 020/715-410) is 100m west of Marko Polo Tours at Plokata 19 Travnja. Not surprisingly, most restaurants in the old town tend to be expensive. One exception is the excellent Adio Mare , near Marco Polo's House, one of the best restaurants on the coast and justifiably popular; arrive early to make sure of a table. Another worthy choice is Gradski Podrum , just inside the main gate of the old town. A cheaper and more functional alternative is Planjak , next to the ferry office at Plokata 21. Wherever you eat, do try some of the local wines , some of which are excellent: look out for the delicious dry white Grk from Lumbarda, Posip from Smokvica, or the headache-inducing red Dingac from Postup on Peljesac. Performances of Korcula's famous folk dance , the Moreska , take place outside the main gate to the old town every Thursday evening (tickets from Marko Polo tours; 50kn) during the summer. The dance is the story of a conflict between the Christians (in red) and the Moors (in black): the heroine, Bula (literally "veiled woman"), is kidnapped by the evil foreign king and his army, and her betrothed tries to win her back in a ritualized sword fight which takes place within a shifting circle of dancers. The dance gets gradually more and more frantic, the swords clashing furiously, rising to a climax in which the evil king is forced to surrender while his adversary unchains Bula and carries her off, triumphant.
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